Entries from April 2007 ↓
April 29th, 2007 — Expensive, Good, restaurant reviews
On December 5th, 2006, pioneering chef Dennis Foy opened his eponymous Contemporary American restaurant in Tribeca (313 Church Street). Estella Quiñones-Foy, Mr. Foy’s wife and longtime business partner, will oversee the front of the house. Mr. Foy, a self-taught chef, is “one of the [Garden] State’s founding fathers of haute cuisine” (Anthony Giglio, New Jersey Life, 3/1/06). He has owned and operated critically acclaimed restaurants in New Jersey and New York City for more than 30 years, including Mondrian and EQ in Manhattan and The Tarragon Tree in Meyersville, New Jersey.
In addition to being a chef, Mr. Foy is an accomplished landscape painter whose work is regularly exhibited at galleries. The walls of DENNIS FOY are lined with his seascapes and landscapes, painted in a vibrant, “Abstract Realist” style; all of the canvases are available for purchase. Complementing his paintings are multi-colored vaulted arches and silk-ribbed, cranberry-hued chandeliers that lend a warm, serene feel to the 60-seat dining room. In addition to the main dining room, there is an elegant, 30-seat private dining room downstairs in the wine cellar.
Estella and I want to imprint our personal stamp on the dining experience here. From the food on the plate to the paintings on the walls to the warm service, it all reflects our sensibility,” Mr. Foy said. “What’s more, we hope that through my style of cooking, the prices, and the atmosphere, the restaurant will be a great local spot for Tribeca residents and a dining destination in its own right.”
The cuisine at DENNIS FOY is satisfying, seasonal, French-influenced Contemporary American fare. Examples include: Warm Crabmeat Tian; Sea Scallops with Savoy Cabbage, Cèpes, and Parsnip Puree; and Roasted Loin of Lamb with Acorn Squash, Broccoli Rabe, and Black Pepper Gastrique. Some of the dishes are classics with an offbeat accent, such as Torchon of Foie Gras with “Eis and Snow”—a traditional treatment of foie gras served with an Eiswein gelée (a creative twist on the common beverage accompaniment), and a garnish of a “snow” powder made from foie gras.
The restaurant’s pastry chef is Kimberly Bugler, a French Culinary Institute graduate, who employs modern techniques in her globally-influenced desserts. For example, her Coconut Caramel Bar with Mango-Lime Sorbet receives an experimental touch with a small nest of “Lychee Ribbon,” made with agar and resembling miniature pappardelle. Ms. Bugler was a competitor in the 2005 National Pastry Team Championships and 2004 World Culinary Olympics.
The restaurant’s global wine list was crafted by Ivan Ruiz, a sommelier and wine consultant who has worked with Mr. Foy for almost two decades and spends part of the year in his native Argentina making his own wine. Highlights from the 100-label list are a 2005 Clos de la Vierge Jurancon Sec2002 Saviah Cellars Red Mountain Syrah (France, $40); a (USA, $70); and Mr. Ruiz’s own wine, a 2003 Moviada Cabernet Sauvignon (Argentina, $36).
DENNIS FOY is open for dinner Monday–Saturday, from 5:30–11 PM. The restaurant will open for lunch and weekend brunch in the Spring. For reservations, call 212-625-1007. To reach DENNIS FOY by subway, take the A, C, E, N, Q, R, W, or 6 trains to Canal Street, or the 1 train to Franklin Street.
April 29th, 2007 — restaurant reviews
Kefi
Address 222 W. 79th Street, NYC 10023
between Amsterdam and Broadway
Telephone 212.873.0200
Fax 212.873.6985
Date Established January 2007
Owners Michael Psilakis
Donatella Arpaia
Executive Chef Michael Psilakis
Hours Dinner: Tuesday – Thursday: 5:00 PM -10:30 PM
Friday & Saturday: 5:00 PM -11:00 PM
Sundays: 5:00 PM -10:00 PM
Menu Appetizers $4.50-10
Entrees $10-16
Dessert $5-8
Wine Program: All Greek, prices by the glass $6-14, by the bottle $14-115
The Space Designed by Matthew Sudock of M Design
Dining Room: 70 seats Lounge: 18 seats
Private Events Available for lunch
House Policies Cash only
Reservations Reservations not taken
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hef Michael Psilakis, who first made his name serving upscale modern Greek cuisine at the Upper West Side gem, Onera, has transformed that space into a new, rustic Greek restaurant called Kefi. The space embraces a casual, accessible format, with the average check clocking in at about $30.
Working off of the original design by Matthew Sudock of M Design, Kefi’s interior reflects the restaurant’s casual approach. The blue walls that have become a long-standing feature of the restaurant will now be lined with white Greek ceramic pieces and a gallery of photos featuring a young Chef Psilakis in traditional Greek dancing garb. Kefi’s new wood-topped tables replace the white cloths of Onera and are paired with new wooden chairs brought in from the Aegean island of Santorini. Copper light fixtures and airy swatches of cloth hang from the ceiling, imparting a casual, fresh quality to the restaurant’s tranquil ambiance.
The menu is divided into Meze, or small plates and appetizers, Macaronia, or pasta, and Poultry, Meat and Fish, all prepared using authentic techniques. Taken straight from his childhood dining room table are Greek classics like Crispy Cod with Garlic Potatoes and Tomato, Grilled Octopus with bean salad, and Baked Noodle Pasta with beef ragout and béchamel. Michael’s seafood dishes—like Baked Shrimp & Scallop with orzo, tomato and Feta, Grilled Swordfish with artichoke confit, dandelion greens and lemon, and Shrimp & Scallop Souvlaki with tzatziki and pita bread—celebrate the traditional flavors or Greek cuisine. All dips are recommended, as are the sweetbreads (although they were not “crispy” as described on the menu). Stuffed cabbage, a vegetarian dish, with an egg-lemon-foam stole the show and was seconded by a terrific braised lamb shank with orzo. All desserts are wonderful, especially an airy walnut cake and a trendy chocolate composite.
Complimenting the menu in its focus on value and authenticity, the beverage program features an affordable selection of Greek wines. Six wines by the glass are on offer for $6 each. Full bottles range from $18-$55 with a small reserve list at a higher, but not exorbitant, price point. Keeping the wine list reasonably priced allows more diners to explore Greek varietals without breaking the bank.
An elusive and folkloric concept, the idea of kefi—or the bliss and delight that accompanies good food in good company—is a word deeply tied to the cultural ethos of Greece. Chef Psilakis channeled the principles of kefi in creating his newest concept, blending rustic cuisine and well-selected, well-priced wines with a serene, comfortable atmosphere.
Side Dish
LA CANTINA TOSCANA Wild Boar Dinner
After months of waiting for the wild boar products, restaurateur/chef Pierluigi Sacchetti, La Cantina Toscana (1109 1st Avenue – 60th & 61st Streets) is introducing a special 5-Course Wild Boar Tasting Menu.
Pierluigi explains: “I believe this is the first time anyone has offered wild boar head cheese in this country. I am using a very old recipe from San Casciano, a small town 20 miles from Florence, that uses a small amount of cinnamon, orange rind, and cloves, which in all probability originated during the Renaissance.”
TASTING MENU
1. Homemade (in-house) wild boar prosciutto, wild boar sausage, bruschetta of wild boar, Tuscan bread (saltless – probably the only restaurant to have it in NYC)
2. Wild boar head cheese, sliced imported blood oranges
3. Pappardelle with wild boar ragu
4. Wild boar stew (shoulder), polenta
5. Tenderloin of wild boar, dusted with fennel pollen, prune sauce
$59.95 prix fixe OR $89.95 with paired wines
Available April 1 through May 31
April 29th, 2007 — Side Dish
Side Dish
Dirty rotten stinky cheeses and the chefs that love them…There’s a universe of cheese out there that will either completely disgust you—or change your life.Mondays in March & October of 2007
NEW YORK STINKY CHEESE FEST…..
Heaven is a place where cheeses covered in festering mold, the kind that if you get them just ripe enough will ooze like slime and emit an aroma that will remind you of dirty socks… For those who can get past appearance and the aroma (and you know who you are!) perseverance is a passport to a world of taste sensation that saturates every last taste bud with a robust, creamy, yet tangy fusion of flavors: flavors and textures that love bread, wine, beer, nuts, fruits and savories. This is culinary orgasm. In his never-ending quest to help you get a lot out of life, regardless of what your lot in life is,
New York restaurateur Simon Oren has asked his chefs at Nice Matin, Marseille, Café D’Alsace, et. al. to come up with their favorite stinky cheese dishes: desserts, entrees, starters…
Drop by on any Monday come this March and October and you’ll find an dinner a la carte menu that will change your life.
You know what they say: once you go plaque, you no never go back!
CAFE D’ALSACE
- Philippe Roussel Petatou warm potato salad w/ Alsatian Muenster 10.50
- Fricassee of Artichokespoached egg gratinée w/ Morbier 11.50
- Roasted Beet Salad Crottin de Chavignol 11.00
- TartifletteGratin of fingerling potatoes with bacon, onions & Reblochon 17.50
- Raclette Savoyard 16.50
- Braised Endive with Smoked Ham Gratinée Epoisses de
Bourgogne 17.00
- Fromage Blanc & Lemon Souffle 9.50Tarte au Fromage Alsacien Style 8.50
MARSEILLE
Chef Andy D’AmicoPeter Larsen,
Chef de Cuisine Tallegio
- Cream Soup braised rabbit, picholine olives & fried sage 8.50
- Croque of Pickled Tongue Muenster cheese, tomato & mustard seed relish 11.
- Monkfish “Cordon Bleu Fontina Val d’Aosta, mortadella & pearl onions 19.
- Niman Ranch Pork Rib Chop Raclette, calvedos & macerated prunes 23.
- Gorgonzola Frittersgorgonzola & apricot fondue 9.
NICE MATIN
Chef Andy D’Amico, Eric Thomas,
Chef de Cuisine
- Stinky Cheese Soup crème fraiche, Alsatian muenster & crispy bacon 8.50
- Croque of Fontina Val d’Aosta with Bagna Cauda imported Italian Fontina cheese sandwich dipped in egg & sautéed w/ anchovy butter sauce 10.
- Quail “Cordon Bleu” with Tallegio & Pear pounded thin & stuffed with Tallegio cheese, breaded & pan fried crisp w/ a pear tarte tatin 14.
- Gratin of Finnan Haddie and Raclette smoked haddock, cream sauce w/ potatoes, peppers & leeks 18.
- Gorgonzola Crepes gorgonzola cremificato, apple butter, honey & almonds 9.
LE MONDE
Regis Courivaud
- Souffle au Fromage Qui Put Muenster cheese soufflé w/ frisée salad in a Gorgonzola dressing 11.50
- Tourte de Fromage L’époissespuff pastry filled with Epoisses cheese, potatoes & leeks, w/ mache salad in truffle dressing 12.
- Filet de Bœuf au Fromagefilet mignon with Shropshire Blue sauce w/ spinach & roasted pomme chateaux 21.
- St. Jacques au Fromage Très Fortsautéed sea scallops w/ bacon, potatoes Cremoulin cheese gratin & muenster sauce 19.95
- Gateau au Fromage de GorgonzolaGorgonzola & caramelized apple cheesecake 6.50
L’EXPRESS
Thierry Haxaire
- Three Cheese Croque Camembert, Reblochon, Gaperon 7.95
- Tartelette of Beaufort Cheese red onions & mushrooms 7.95
- “Matelote” of Salmon & Pike potatoes & Reblochon 8.95
- Chicken Cordon Blue Bleu de bresse, speck & tomato salad 13.95
- Grilled Lamb Top Sirloin Gaperon Maitre d’, celeriac purée 15.95
- Goat Milk Feta, fresh watermelon 7.95
- Gratiné of Saint-Félicien w/ Honey walnut ice cream 8.75
- Sweet Garlic Soup, Pont L’Evêque Croutons 6.
- Tallegio Tarte Fine w/ duck confit & tomato concassee 10.95
- Potato, Corn & Rocamadour “Tourte” dandelion salad, tart cherries 8.95
- Bistro Steak,Sauce Vin RougeBleu d’Auvergne fondue, leek gratin 18.95
- Epoisses Crème BruléeGreen apple granité 7.95
FRENCH ROAST CAFÉ
John Lee & Frederick Piccarello
- Saint Andre Cheese Soup 6.75
- Croque Monsieur with Poached Egg 11.75
- Melted Raclette 9.50
- Mesclun with Saint Marcellin Cheese 9.75
- Braised Endive & Ham Gratinée 8.50
- Chopped Kobe Beef with Bucheron & sautéed spinach 19.
NICE MATIN, ( 201 West 79th S @ Amsterdamn Avenue, 212-873-NICE)
MARSEILLE, (630 9th Avenue @ 44th Street, 212-333-2323)
CAFÉ D’ALSACE, (1695 2nd Avenue @ 88 St, 212-722-5133)
LE MONDE, (2885 Broadway at 112 St), 212-31-3939)
PIGALLE, (790 8th Avenue 48th ST.@, 212-489-2233)
L’EXPRESS, (
249 Park Avenue South @ 20th Street, 212-254-5858)
FRENCH ROAST CAFES (
78 W 11th Street
, 212-533-2233; and 340 Broadway @ 85th, 212-799-1533)
EVERYTHING YOU EVER WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT STINKY CHEESES BUT WERE AFRAID TO ASK…..Abondance (France Haute Savoie Cow) Abondance is an uncooked, pressed, semi-hard cheese from the Haute Savoie (Alps) region in
France. It is an Appellation d’Origine Controlée (AOC) cheese which means it’s method of production is strictly regulated.
Beaufort d’Alpage (France Savoie (AOC) cow) Dubbed "Prince of Gruyeres" by gastronome extrordinaire, Brillat-Savarin. Named for its little market town of origin, the hazelnut flavor is incomparable. Feeding on the unique splendour of 1000 flowers at 5000 foot-high Alpine pastures, free of fertilizer and atmospheric pollution, this raw cow’s milk produces an exceptionally aromatic and savory cheese. Hard, pressed, and cooked before a slow, cold cellar ripening of 6 months, this irresistible cheese is suited for the table, fondues, grating, pies, quiche, or a simply the ultimate snack. Blue de Bresse (France Bresse Cow) Blue brie with a very creamy consistency. This fine blue brie has a pleasant, thin, edible rind. It is from the Bresse country. It is best served at room temperature. Cramoulin (France Franche-Comte Cow) Another great Vacherin style cheese from
Franche-Comte, more specifically produced near the Jura mountain range in Haut-Jura. Cremoulin, a relatively new Vacherin, was created to be the closest thing available to the one true Vacherin, and probably the finest, Vacherin Haute-Rive (very rarely available). When a Vacherin is ripe (preferable), like Cremoulin, you’ll notice a thick reddish-brown rind that appears to have a rippled wave effect, when eaten it is runny, oozy, and meant to be eaten with a spoon. Like all great Vacherin, wheels are small (about 4-5 in. diameter) and wrapped in a spruce bark to hold the form together. Cremoulin is highly produced so this cheese comes in a cardboard box to mimic the effect, but nonetheless, the cheese will be the closest thing available to a fermier example of Vacherin: runny, smelly, bitey, woodsy and just plain heavenly!
Fontina, Val D’Aosta (Italy Valle d’Aosta (DOC) cow) From cows grazing in 6,500 foot pastures at the foot of the Alps in Italy’s northwestern-most region, this semi-firm, cooked and pressed raw cow’s milk cheese is traditional Fontina. Reaching maturity in 3 – 4 months, the burnished, crusty rind is obtained through brushing and oiling, protecting pale golden interior, riddled with small holes. The uniquely rich and nutty flavor is reminiscent of truffles, with a subtle fruity, grassy aroma and supple texture. Try it with a big Chardonnay, or a bold Piemonte red. Fourme d’Ambert, (France Massif Central (AOC) cow) This Fourme D’Ambert is aged by our friend Hervé Mons in
Roanne, France. Unpressed raw cow’s milk curds that are shaped into tall cylinders like miniature Stiltons. It is placed into well-ventilated humid caves ripened for 3 months to allow the growth of penicillum glaucum, roquefortii’s milder cousin . The result is a rich, assertive blue, with a balanced flavor and soft, crumbly texture. In the mountains of central
France, this “fourme” of blue has been a tradition since the turn of the last millennium! Goat Feta (France Goat) Preserved in brine solution, which gives it a salty taste, goat Feta is a white, creamy, firm cheese that has a distinctive sharp flavour. Gorgonzola Cremificato, (Italy Lombardy (DOC) cow) Cremificato is made from just the raw morning milk of local cows. The blue cultures are added to the milk before coagulation. Ripened by Guffanti for 3 months until soft, the cheese is rich, pungent and profoundly “sweet”. Frequently used in
Italy in sauces or on fresh bread. Superb, too, for dessert with fresh pears, apples or simply drizzle with honey. THE BEST GORGONZOLA EVER! Gorgonzola Dolce (Italy Lombardy (DOC) cow) With 1000 years of tradition, Gorgonzola originated as a natural blueing stracchino cheese, ripening in caves north of Milan that were rife with naturally occurring penicillum glaucum. Today, however, the blue cultures are added to the milk before coagulation. Traditionally, Dolcelatte is made from just a morning milk. Generally ripened for 3 – 6 months, the cheese is rich, pungent and profoundly “sweet”. Use Dolce for sauces for steak and potatoes or portabella mushrooms and served with a huge, red wine. Superb, too, for dessert with fresh pears or apples and a fresh glass of Muscato D’Asti.
Gorgonzola
Mountain (Italy
Lombardy (DOC) cow) Unlike Gorgonzola Dolce, the cheese is begun with a morning milk covering the bottom and sides of a mould, and evening milk to fill the center. The mold is a taller “top hat” variety, similar in size and shape to a Stilton. The cheese is drained and aged for 6 months up to a year, producing a firmer, slightly more crumbly, wheel. Also called, Gorgonzola Naturale, it embodies the spicy, earthy flavors of its mountain pastures Mountain Gorgonzola is terrific for crumbling on salad or pasta, and either for stuffing pears or peaches for a dessert course. Match it with a sturdy red or heavy dessert wine. Grayson (US
Va. Cow) Grayson is Meadow Creek Dairy’s washed rind offering: the brownish-orange rind of the mildly pungent four-pound square envelopes a supple, semi-soft paste that tastes rich and beefy with sweet, nutty tones. Grayson and fresh fruit go beautifully together. Greparon (France Auvergne Cow) Gaperon is made from a mixture of fresh milk and buttermilk. Its name means buttermilk in
Auvergne, where it originated. It is made with several herbs and peppers. This cheese has a smoked, spicy flavor to it. Hooligan (US Ct. Jersey Cow) Made from the raw milk-of grass-fed Jersey cows in
Colchester, CT. Each one and a half pound wheel is hand ladled and washed twice a week, first with a mixture of buttermilk and b. linens and then with a brine solution. The resulting wheel (aged for at least 2 months) has a sticky, pungent rind and a thick, uniform, creamy paste with a long, barnyardy finish. Langres (France Champagne Cow) Langres comes from the same family as Epoisses and
Munster, you will definitely notice its strong smell and enjoy its complex taste. Although a bit salty, it is milder than Epoisses. Langres is produced in Champagne,
France with a history dating back to the 18th century. The cheese is still made using the same traditional methods; a long ripening period in a very humid cellar, and regularly washed with Annatto pigment, sometimes it is also washed with a local Marc de Champagne. The man-made depression at the top of the cheese is called a "fontaine" or "cuvette" and serves as a place pour a little bubbly! The firm paste will melt in your mouth. L’Epoisses (France Burgundy (AOC) cow) A little disc of soft, raw cow’s milk cheese with a penetrating, spicy aroma kept at bay in a little wooden box. Hand ladled curds are moulded, washed in lightly salted water and ripened in humid cellars. After 4 weeks the rind is rinsed with Marc de Bourgogne. Napoleon I and Louis XIV were avid supporters of the strong, meaty taste of this great, little A.O.C. stinker. Serve with a
Burgundy for the full effect. Livarot (France Normandy (AOC) cow) With monastery origins, this is Pont L’Eveque’s aggressive (sometimes bullying!) next door neighbor. Brine washed cow’s milk matured for three months in warm, humid cellars. The five strips of paper wrapped around its circumference earned it the nickname "the colonel.” Strong-smelling, with assertive flavor and meaty texture that intensifies with age. Traditionally served with Calvados… or strong black coffee. Livarot Tradition (France Normandy (AOC) cow) This is aged by none other than Hervé Mons in
Roanne, France. With monastery origins, this is Pont L’Eveque’s aggressive (sometimes bullying!) next door neighbor. Brine washed, raw cow’s milk matured for three months in warm, humid cellars. The five strips of paper wrapped around its circumference earned it the nickname "the colonel.” Strong-smelling, with assertive flavor and meaty texture that intensifies with age. Traditionally served with Calvados… or strong black coffee. Meunster (France Alsace cow) Often confused by Americans due to the deli counter cheese of the same name. This is petite munster from the Alsace region in northeastern France aged for us by Hervé Mons in
Roanne, France. This aromatic of the highest degree is washed in brine and beer giving it the distinctive orange rind and yeasty aroma. The interior is soft and goes runny with age. The most memorable aroma has little to say when it’s in your mouth, it changes into a buttery, complex mouth filling experience that will shock those willing to brave the smell. A classic with aromatic wines of the same region, often served with toasted cumin seeds or try a floral Gewerztraminer. Mimolette (France Flanders Cow) The Mimolette is a most unusual cheese, spherical like an
Edam but with a rough moon-like surface and a bright orange interior. It resembles a melon when cut open. The cheese originated in Holland and is made in a similar way to
Edam. It is believed to have been introduced to France when
Flanders was a part of that country. Some believe that in the 17th century the French minister Colbert forbade the importation of foreign goods, including cheese, and so the French began making it for themselves. It is now made in Flanders and also in other parts of France, particularly
Brittany, and it is often known as ‘Boule de Lille’. The name Mimolette derives from ‘mi-mou’ meaning ‘half-soft’. The name Boule de Lille derives from a ripening cellar in the city of
Lille, where the cheese was originally matured. Maturing the cheeses involves storing them in damp cellars and turning them every week. At the same time the surface of the cheese is brushed to remove cheese mites which feast on its surface. As the cheese ages, evidence of mites can be seen in the pitted and moon like surface which appears on the cheese. Mimolette can be eaten young but is usually matured for a minimum of six months when it is called ‘demi-étuvée’ or ‘demi-vielle’ (half old). The texture is firm and oily and the colour a vivid orange. With ageing it slowly hardens and dries and the colour changes from carrot to orange-brown. At twelve months it is called ‘vielle en étuvée’ (old) and at two years it is called ‘très vielle’ (very old). We mature ours to 18 months since we believe it gives the best combination of texture and flavour – we call it Mimolette Vieux (or Vielle). It has a firm texture with a very nutty flavour and a thick brown-grey crust. The cheese is not a perfect sphere but is slightly flattened at both ends. Each Mimolette has a diameter of 20cm, weighs between 3 and 4kg, and has a fat content of 40%. All Mimolette is made using pasteurised cows’ milk. Mimolette is excellent on the cheese board but can also be used in canapés and for grating.
Munster (France Alsace cow) Often confused by Americans due to the deli counter cheese of the same name. This is petite munster from the Alsace region in northeastern
France. This aromatic of the highest degree is washed in brine and beer giving it the distinctive orange rind and yeasty aroma. The interior is soft and goes runny with age. The most memorable aroma has little to say when it’s in your mouth, it changes into a buttery, complex mouth filling experience that will shock those willing to brave the smell. A classic with aromatic wines of the same region, often served with toasted cumin seeds or try a floral Gewerztraminer. Petit Basque (
France sheep) Sheep’s milk cheese with a semi-firm texture which is similar to Petit Basque, with nutty, sweet and caramel flavors Pont L’Eveque (France Normandy Cow) One of great triumverate cheeses of
Normandy along with Livarot and Camembert. Pont l’ Eveque (PHAWN-leh-VECK) is the oldest
Normandy cheese dating back to the early open market days at Calvados in the early 1600’s. Still mostly made today from raw cow’s milk, Pont l’ Eveque is ripened only for 6 weeks and at week 4 its rind is brine-washed which gives the cheese its pinkish to orange-gold skin. It is made in 6 ounce, 8 ounce, and 3-5 pound square forms, always packaged in square wood chip boxes. You will notice the cross-hatched impressions left on the rind from the cloths laid on the forms as they drain. The aroma is full and savory and should not be at all ammoniated. The flavor is more meaty and tangy than Camembert. Raclette (Switzerland, Belgium, France Valais, Wallonia, Savoie, Franche-Comté and
Bretagne past.) Traditional Raclette is a semi-firm, salted cheese made from cow’s milk. However, varieties exist made with white wine, pepper, herbs, or smoked. The cheese originated in the Swiss canton of Valais, but is today also fabricated in the French regions of Savoie, Franche-Comté and
Bretagne. Reblochon Wheel (France Savoie (AOC) cow) Made in the Savoie of eastern
France with raw cow’s milk, this soft-ripened monastery cheese dates back to the 15th century. The secret to its rich and creamy flavor lies in an early tax fraud. Farmers used to pay rent for their land with milk. The landowner would make his evening rounds to collect his cut. After his departure, the farmer would finish the milking. The yield of the second milking proved richer and creamier, and was reserved for tithe-sized disks of cheese for the monks. Reblocher is a dialect word meaning "to squeeze the udder a second time." Thank God for dishonesty. This lightly salted and pressed cheese of Abondance cows preserves the flavor of floral mountain pastures and is wonderful with rustic breads and fruity red wines. Saint Andre (France cow) High (75%) milk-fat ("triple crème") cow’s milk French cheese with a soft buttery texture in a powdery white bloomy skin of mold, like an intense version of Brie. Extra heavy cream is added to the cheese during manufacture. A traditional wheel of Saint-André is smaller and shaped higher than the familiar flat wheel of Brie. Saint-André is so fat it can make a white wine taste sour and metallic:
Shropshire Blue (England Nottinghamshire cow) One of the most recognizable cow’s milk blue cheeses and very similar to Stilton in flavor, but with a firmer texture and more assertive edge. It’s bright orange color, dense fudge-like texture and blue veining makes the cheese appear to almost vibrate as it sits before you. But once in your mouth, it doesn’t merely move.. it explodes! Vivid on every count and wonderful with Port or
Madeira. St. Felicien (France Bourgogne Cow) This subtly sour cheese is similar to Saint Marcellin, but the similarities end fairly quickly: Saint Felicien is twice as creamy and much softer than St. Marcellin, so this is the perfect choice if you love soft, melt-in-the-mouth textures and flavors. Known as ôcallie douxö in the Rhone-Alps where it originates, Saint Felicien is simply cheese perfection St. Nectaire (France Auvergne (AOC) cow) This one is aged for us by Hervé Mons in
Roanne, France. Using the same cow’s milk as Cantal, this uncooked, pressed, semi-soft monastery cheese boasts of a complex, subtle flavor and ancient origins. With herds grazing at over 3000 feet on volcanic mountain flora, nourished by native thermal waters, these cheeses are made after each milking and ripened for two months on rye straw mats. With a thick natural rind inspired by the mats on which it sits, it carries a savory, nutty, fruity flavor with a tangy finish and adds balance to any cheese board. Serve with a bold
Bordeaux and take a deep breath of the French countryside. Stilton (England Nottinghamshire cow) The term “Royal Blue” must have come from the creation of Stilton! Invented by Elizabeth Scarbrow and first served in 1720 at the Bell Inn in Stilton, fame was not far behind. Made with pasteurized cow’s milk, it is ripened 3-4 months under carefully controlled cool, humid conditions. Unlike other blues, Stilton’s veining comes about by piercing the wheel as many as 300 times after one month of aging, allowing the blue to develop in the cheese being hit by oxygen. Colston-Basset Dairy, likely the most traditional of all Stilton-makers, produces this exceptionally creamy wheel, buttery in texture with a clean, minerally tang that you’ll never forget. Traditionally served with Port or fresh pears (but you already knew that.) Another classic, traditional export from Neal’s Yard Dairy of London. Stinking Bishop (England Gloucestershire cow) A sticky orange rind with a pungent and spirited aroma. The texture can vary from firm to soft and creamy depending on the season.
Tallegio (Italy Lombardy (DOC) cow) Taleggio’s high fat content (48%) gives it a very creamy, semi-soft texture that turns runny as it ages. Washed rind, reddish-orange color with mold. his extremely pungent, stinky cheese has a very creamy and mellow taste. It’s initial salty impact is followed by fruity,
April 29th, 2007 — restaurant reviews
Copyright 2007 by Punch In International® News Syndicatewww.punchin.com E-Mail: walmanreport@punchin.com
Punch In is Proud to be the Recipient of the Prestigious 5 Star Web-Award For Distinguished Content
Per Lei
Location: 1347 Second Ave.
At 71st Street
New York, NY .jpg)
10021
Phone: Tel 212-439-9200
Fax 212-439-1853
Cuisine: Italian
Owner/Partners: Enrico Proietti
Executive Chef: Fabrizio DeTogni
Seating Capacity: Indoor Seating: 70
Outdoor Seating: 60
Hours of Operation: Lunch- Monday to Saturday 12:00 pm – 3:30 pm
Dinner- Monday to Saturday 5:00 pm – 12:00 pm
Dinner- Sunday 4:00 pm -10:30 am
Brunch- Sunday 12:00 pm – 4:00 pm
Price Range:
Appetizers: $13 to $18
Entrees: $ 21 to $ 31
Desserts: $ 8 to $ 11
Cocktails: $ 7 to $ 10
Wine: Red and white wines. Organic/Biodynamic/Traditional: 60 bottles
Price range: $35 – $185
Number of wines available by the glass: 10 – 14
Price range: $9 – $14
Credit Cards: MasterCard, Visa, American Express
Reservations: Recommended
Website: www.perleinyc.com
tyle and Elegance Meet the Mediterranean Coast at Per Lei. Located in the heart of the Upper East Side. Restaurateur Enrico Proletti’s adds this latest venture to his beloved fixtures Bella Blu and Baraonda restaurants. This 130 seat (70 indoor seats and 60 indoor seats) Italian restaurant combines solid cuisine from Executive Chef Fabrizio De Togni, sexy ambiance and European décor. Candlelit tables and Italian artist Fabrizio Musa’s Warhol-esque portraits of beautiful women adorn the bright white walls giving Per Lei a breezy Mediterranean feel. Design elements such as cream crocodile banquettes, a sleek black bar, and the dazzling crystal chandelier imported from Austria adds a luxurious feel to the dining room. The wrap-around outdoor café complete with palm trees can accommodate up to sixty guests and is a perfect summer dining option. Per Lei attributes its culinary success to a commitment to the finest ingredients, premium service and elegant ambience. DeTogni, a native of Milan, showcases his experience from around the world, by blending his knowledge and education from stints at La Traditional in Sondalo, Italy, La Greppia in Milan, Paper Moon in Istanbul, and Elite Concept in Hong Kong. By bringing strong cultural heritage to the forefront of his menu, DeTogni gives diners the opportunity to be immersed in Italian culture. While featuring dishes that incorporate the regional flavors and textures of his favorite meals, DeTongi offers a seasonal menu of traditional Italian dishes with a contemporary twist such as Sautéed Airline Chicken served with Red Plum, sautéed baby bock choy and port sauce. Signature appetizers include a delicious eggplant “cake,” garnished with perfectly cut proscuitto and a sparkling, fresh salad. Carpaccio di Pesce Spada, swordfish carpaccio with fennel and orange salad with pink peppercorn is another option. DeTogni’s delectably satisfying homemade pastas, include his Cocoa flavored Papperdelle, served with slow roasted duck leg confit and black olives. It is absolutely delicious, as is Garganelli handrolled to perfection and combined with sautéed chicken, porcini mushrooms, and a mascarpone cheese sauce, or better yet, a beautifully made Bolognaise sauce.. Signature entrees include a pan-seared Branzino with lemon served over summer piperade, capers and basil, and Roasted Australian Lamb Chops crusted with pistachios served over Sicillian caponata. The rich dessert menu at Per Lei boasts creative interpretations of traditional Italian desserts such as a terrific version of Sfogliatina con Fragoie, Millefeuille pastry with strawberry, custard cream, and caramelized port sauce is also masterful. A versatile wine list incorporates family-owned vineyards from throughout Italy. Per Lei has also designed a list of over 15 martinis. Local favorites include the Strawberry Basil Martini, a mixture of vodka, Chambord, Grand Marnier, cranberry juice, strawberry, basil, and black peppercorn. But most of all Per Lei is fun, with its casually elegant décor, friendly service and excellent food. Be on the lookout for the new summer menu. It promises to be memorable.
Side DishDining Al Fresco 2007:
New York City’s Top Tables
It’s no longer just a dream. Finally, the weather we’ve all been waiting for has arrived, time to start peeling off the layers, skipping with joy and jostling for the few coveted outdoor dining tables at restaurants in the city. Here’s where you can catch some long-awaited rays or gaze up at the midnight sky over delectable food and drinks. A Voce 41 Madison Avenue, NYC, 212-545-8555 www.avocerestaurant.comLaunching this May, the outdoor sidewalk café at A Voce, appropriately titled Al Fresco at A Voce, will evoke the sidewalk cafés of Italy…places of conviviality where people come to enjoy a meal, a scoop of gelato, an espresso, a cooling cocktail or a glass of wine, while indulging in the fresh air, taking in the scenery and basically just savoring life. The patio will bring 60 seats to the city’s much coveted outdoor dining real estate. Chef/Partner Andrew Carmellini will offer an abridged version of his lauded menu with an emphasis on antipasti, the cornerstone of outdoor dining in Italy in the summer. A separate bar and comfortable seating will allow guests to sip, linger, relax and flirt, as day becomes night. The bar will feature signature cocktails like the A Voce Negroni (given an Italian twist with the addition of Amaro) and a selection of icy-cold Scropinos, an Italian summertime libation combining sorbetti, vodka and prosecco. The outdoor dining patio’s design will echo A Voce’s indoor dining room with its juxtaposition of rustic and modern elements. Protected by a large awning, Herman Miller Caper Chairs in light blue will be paired with Terrazzo tables and surrounded by lemon trees, potted herbs and flowers. Al Fresco at A Voce…tutto bene!Cookshop 156 Tenth Avenue, NYC, 212-924-4440 www.cookshopny.comEnjoy the sunshine while dining on Cookshop’s Tenth Avenue sidewalk patio. At their Chelsea hotspot, owners Marc Meyer and Vicki Freeman offer refreshing cocktails – the Havana Sidecar with fresh citrus, rosemary, thyme and Martin Miller’s gin or an Italian Sea Breeze with fresh grapefruit and orange juice and Campari – and delicious dishes, including Chef Meyer’s beloved Grilled Grass-Fed Burger with twice-smoked bacon, Vermont cheddar, chipotle ketchup, mayonnaise and fries, Whole Fish – Atlantic porgy, sautéed spinach, shallot, chili and caper-oregano salsa, and Hudson Valley rabbit with creamy polenta and spring onion salsa. Finish by savoring a Strawberry Shortcake with Ronnybrook cream and gingered strawberry compote. Django 480 Lexington Avenue, NYC, 212-871-6600 www.djangorestaurant.comTake in New York’s Midtown street life from the elevated terrace at Django and welcome summer with Chef Andrew Karasz’s Mediterranean Riviera cuisine. Up to 70 people can enjoy lunch beneath the ivy-lined trellis as they relax and watch the city go by. During sultry summer nights, enjoy cocktails such as the fresh Cucumber or Pomegranate Martini, and dishes from Karasz’s seasonally inspired menu; highlights include as Blue Fin Tuna Cru and Spring-Pea Risotto with pecorino and mint. Landmarc [Tribeca] 179 W. Broadway, NYC, 212-343-3883 www.landmarc-restaurant.comWhen the weather is warm patrons can relax at one of 10 outdoor tables—2 of which are perched on the second floor balcony—and enjoy Landmarc’s French/Italian bistro cuisine for lunch, dinner and weekend brunch. Refreshing selections include Salmon Tartare with red onions, lemon confit and mustard; Landmarc’s Chopped Salad, a mix of celery, cucumber, hearts of palm, beets and balsamic vinegar; and Steamed Mussels topped with pesto and cherry tomatoes. If a spring meal in the sunshine is not quite enough to take the edge off, a bottle of wine chosen from Landmarc’s famously well-selected, well-priced list or an order of Landmarc’s Ice Cream Cones will certainly do the trick. NISH 405 E. 58th Street, NYC, 212-754-6272After 16 years as one of the top toques in New York City, Chef Wayne Nish has reinvented his New York mainstay March into NISH, a restaurant that showcases his knowledge and passion for fusion cuisine. Enjoy Slow-Roasted Wild Pacific Salmon with spicy miso glaze in fox noodle broth or savor handmade raw milk cheeses imported from France while seated on the outdoor terrace of the Upper East Side townhouse, escaping the city’s hustle and bustle. Spice Market 403 West 13th Street, NYC, 212-675-2322 www.jean-georges.comDuring the warmer months, Meatpacking District dining destination Spice Market opens its 26-seat sidewalk café. Though coveted outside seating is on first-come, first-serve basis, those who prefer to make reservations can take advantage of a beautiful, breezy interior: the restaurant opens its floor-to-ceiling doors in summer months as well. Perfect to beat the summer heat, Spice Market has recently introduced a number of house-made sodas in fantastic flavors such as passion fruit-chile, tamarind, cherry-yuzu, and lemon-jasmine tea. Other great ways to cool off include fresh ginger ale, iced matcha green tea, iced black tea-coconut infusion, and iced Vietnamese coffee. Light and flavorful dishes include Spicy Thai Fried Chicken Wings with mango and mint; Crispy Sesame Crab with sweet soy, pink grapefruit and ginger salad, and tender pork, chicken or beef satays.
These reviews are available and have been seen on the Internet. Click here to see an index of other reviews on the worldwide web <http://www.punchin.com>. <http://www.wineonline.net>. They have been heard on WNCN, WEVD and seen in Fodor’s and Mobil Guide Books, and printed in Chocolatier, Troika, Trump World and Metropolitan Millionaire magazines and newspapers and throughout the world, including the NY Post, Women’s Wear Daily and the NY Times, via the Punch In International Network. This review may be reprinted free of charge, so long as source and byline credit are included: "The Walman Report," "Punch In International®," Wine On Line International®.
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April 12th, 2007 — Expensive, French, hotels, restaurant reviews
BLT Market
Address: 1430 Avenue of the Americas, Sixth Avenue and Central Park South
The Ritz-Carlton New York, Central Park
New York, NY 10019
Telephone / Fax: 212-521-6125 / 212-207-8831
Web site: www.bltmarket.com
From Farm to Table: BLT Market Celebrates Artisanal American Foods
Award-winning website, Punchin-dot-com, features the Walman Report and reviews of restaurants, travel, wine and theater. Acclaimed chef and restaurateur Laurent Tourondel seamlessly integrates French sensibilities into the hearty constituents of American cuisine at BLT Market in The Ritz-Carlton New York, Central Park.
The market is brought to the table by focusing on fresh, seasonal ingredients available in farmers’ markets, paying particular attention to unusual, wild and locally grown items. Monthly menus and weekly blackboard specials are updated to feature fruits and vegetables that are at their peak of freshness, flavor and natural abundance. In addition to appetizers, pastas, risottos and entrees, menus feature a column listing monthly peak produce.
Current dishes include remarkable Jumbo Stone Crab Claws in Meyers-Lemon Sauce; Wild Boar Pasta; Bay Scallop Salad with Watercress, Blue Cheese and Walnuts; Braised Lamb Shank with Indian Curry and a Stellar Honey-Based Black Cod with Celeriac Puree. The Garlic Bread is to die for and the wine list is organically oriented and superbly chosen. Desserts include Pear Tart Tatin with frangipane and frozen almond milk and Chestnut Floating Island. Tourondel also offers a lovely seasonal selection of Artisanal American cheese from New York’s Mecox Farm paired with Sullivan Street Bakery breads and sweet cream butter from Vermont Butter & Cheese Co. accompanied by sour plums, roasted pears, honey hazelnuts and figs in a port wine reduction.
BLT Market cocktails also mirror the flavors of the season, featuring muddled fresh fruits and vegetables. But even the overworked martini is a massive paragon of perfection. Service is laid back and benevolent and the room, which was formally home to the posh Atelier, has been redefined with casual elegance and sophistication. The color palette in shades of coffee and cream appears in plush deep chocolate brown banquettes of textured velvet and leather and the wide oak plank floor has been sanded and waxed to a well-worn finish.
BLT Market integrates casual comfort and urban sensibility to create a country chic environment, serving food that is stylish and well executed. The latest venture in a mini-empire that includes BLT Fish, BLT Prime and BLT Burger, BLT Market is located at 1430 Avenue of the Americas in The Ritz-Carlton New York, Central Park, and rates A Major on the Walman Report.
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