L’ybane

1136 First Avenue, between 62nd and 63rd Streets

212-826-1111

open for lunch and dinner from 3:00 PM to 11:30 PM daily. Additionally, the bar is open until 1 AM on weeknights and 1:30 AM on weekends. For more information, or visit http://www.lybane.com/.

The Luscious Chickpea Fritters

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Review By Nancy Walman

Award-winning website and blog, Punchin-dot-com, features the Walman Report and reviews of restaurants, travel, wine and theater.

L’ybane Brings the French Riviera to Uptown New York. When Al Rineh moved from his hometown of Nice, France to the Upper East Side of New York, he brought his acclaimed French Wine Bar and Restaurant, L’ybane, with him. Leaving the first iteration of his restaurant behind with his younger brother, Rineh set off to the Big Apple to make his grandest dream come true: opening a US version of L’ybane for New Yorkers to enjoy. The story of L’ybane is one deeply steeped in family and tradition. Entranced by the food and smells of his hometown and surrounding areas-Italy, Greece, and particularly the Middle East-from a young age, chef and owner Al Rineh decided early on that his life would be devoted to culinary pursuits.

By the age of 18, he put their knowledge to use and opened his first restaurant-a chic eatery in the seaside town of Nice. It was then that L’ybane was born, and it has continued to evolve as an homage to the cities and smells that Rineh continues to call home.

L’ybane looks modern and decidedly like a “downtown,” restaurant but each component reflects the cities that inspire it. A unique, silvery Venetian plaster lines the walls and a sculptural white Crystal di Murano chandelier hangs over the bar. The heart of L’ybane’s décor are references to its original incarnation in Nice. The self-taught chef, credits his mother for everything he knows. But his food is refined and elegant, with home-style touches only manifesting themselves in the laid-back serving style and an emphasis on healthy ingredients. For instance, butter is eliminated from all recipes. Guests enjoy home-toasted pita chips (fabulous!), carrots with za’atar- and sesame-laden yogurt sauce. This early glimpse into the meal reveals the heavy Middle Eastern influence that is found in Chef Rineh’s cooking.

No Mediterranean-style restaurant on town offers such fresh and appealing appetizers. Diners may choose between a large selection of hot or cold dishes. A generous portion of chickpea fritters brings a fresh batch of fried chickpea balls sitting atop a bed of salad. Another appetizer of meat-stuffed pita consists of a small pita sandwich filled with wonderfully spiced ground beef, caught somewhere between shwarma and panini. Hummus and tzatziki are made in house and served with warm pita-the “just made” taste is one that will change your perception of these often-commercialized dishes.

Some of Rineh’s most interesting work occurs when he blends inspiration from various sources. Borrowing from Greece and Italy, his moussaka with eggplant and cheese is lighter and fresher than most of its counterparts. Rice vermicelli, a dish that may sound somewhat ordinary at first, is anything but-it has a unique stickiness and heartiness that’s a result of his deep understanding of French and Italian techniques. Those craving something meatier can order any signature Brochettes, or meat skewers, which come in lamb, beef, chicken, and minced meat varieties, each marinated individually for up to two days and reasonably priced under $20. For a more indulgent treat, diners may try the Cotelette D’Agneau (cutlets of lamb) or a buttery (but butter-free) Filet Mignon. Care for fish instead? Try the Filet De Rougets (red mullet) or Filet de Loup (Sea Bass), each harkening to seaside Nice.

The best way to sample the food at L’ybane is to order the Imperial Assortment-a humble name for what is essentially a Chef’s tasting menu. Choose from the full selection of hot and cold appetizers to customize a variety of fourteen dishes-that’s right, fourteen-that will come to your table, all at an incredible value of $40 per person. By serving several dishes at once, Chef Rineh allows you to “eat as you wish” and take your time, eliminating the stuffiness of many individual courses bearing unnecessary interruptions to your dinnertime conversations. With food this light, guests will find that while it’s easy to find yourself full, it’s difficult to truly over-eat, which is nice considering the quality of Lybane’s desserts. Profiteroles, for instance, are a perfect dessert for two, with two large rounds of pastry that are filled with chocolate ice cream and topped with a decadent chocolate sauce and pistachios (absolutely the best we’ve ever tasted). Also on the menu is a crème brulee with aromatic overtones of lemon and pistachio. Like everything else, this dish espouses Chef Rineh’s philosophy of “authentic Mediterranean food reinvented.” Rineh’s creativity is also manifested in the drinks at L’ybane, which take an increasingly important role as the night progresses and the space takes on a lounge-like feel.

The signature house cocktail, the L’ybane, made with champagne, vodka, and mango puree. Its presentation is truly unique-the drink comes served in an Erlenmeyer flask with straws, which feels unquestionably like a crazy potion from a mysterious chemistry lab. Less adventurous diners can be assured that they will be equally happy with the wine list, with interesting and thoughtful selections of red and whites, many available by the glass. More than anything, L’ybane is truly a neighborhood gem. Nestled on the Upper East Side, it caters to those who love the downtown feel but loathe an extra commute. As Rineh says, “Why go all the way downtown when you have a chic restaurant with fantastic food like L’ybane right in your neighborhood?”

L’ybane is a real find and though it’s a lovely looking restaurant with fine service and a place you’ll want to visit, it’s comforting to know that if you live in the neighborhood, they deliver.

Copyright 2008 by Punch In International. All Rights Reserved.

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