Inspired by an international team of restaurateurs, whose successes include La Goulue, Le Relais, and Le Colonial, FIZZ had an eye to emulating the private clubs of Europe. The interiors were the creation of famed interior designer Jacques Garcia whose work can be seen at the Hôtel Costes, L’Avenue, La Grande Armée, Le Cabaret, the Hôtel des Beaux-Arts, and Le Rivoli-Notre Dame. M. Garcia is also responsible for the elegant restoration of one of Paris’ most stunning buildings: The Hôtel de Mansart on the rue des Tournelles. The result was reminiscent of a mid-Twentieth Century Parisian salon. Picture Klimt-inspired murals, giant rich red tasseled lampshades, and ornate pillars framing private rooms and alcoves where one could draw the drapes for even more seclusion.
So much for Fizz. (It fizzled out). But some 6 months ago, there was a change of owners; a new name and theme. Charming Djamal Zoughbi has reinvented the venue with Moroccan enthusiasm (although he is a Parisian of Algerian descent).
Re-christened as Azza, the new restaurant is a grand space as exotic as it is glamorous. The burgundy and gilt remain, but are softened with wonderful; Moroccan lanterns, which cast a soft glow, new carpets and wall-to-wall pillows. The Moroccan-inspired menu has been translated to the tastes of diners living north of Union Square, and at its best (which is more often the case than not) is delicious. Executive-chef Stephen Ferdinand honed his craft at Aquavit and Le Zoo. Born in Pennsylvania, he uses organic ingredients and a light hand.
The short menu consists of mezze (appetizers, couscous (the national cereal-stew staple of North Africa and tagines (both the name of the vessel in which it is served and the simmered creation within). Many of the results are deconstructed and New-York-ized, but come out with flying colors.
We didn’t sample the most westernized dish, an appetizer portion of seared yellowfin tuna rubbed with harissa (the traditional hot condiment) and other spices. But we couldn’t resist the charred octopus with crunchy chickpeas and mint. Fried cigars, rolled in a phyllo dough then stuffed with spinach and goat cheese was the weakest appetizer, having no particular character, although it was a paragon of greaslessness. The giveaway bread was far better, as was a shared portion of the fabled Bystelya, a sort of pigeon pie in filo crust, dusted with sugar.
Of the tagines, go for the lamb version and don’t miss the seafood couscous, colored black with squid ink. For action head for the club downstairs, but not before a cup (or three) of the delicious mint tea and a taste of the Moroccan fritters. Service is terrific and the wine list is acceptable. A flute of Champagne is the best marriage with the food.
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Charming Djamal Zoughbi has reinvented the venue with Moroccan enthusiasm (although he is a Parisian of Algerian descent). Re-christened as Azza, the new restaurant is a grand space as exotic as it is glamorous. The burgundy and gilt remain, but are softened with wonderful; Moroccan lanterns, which cast a soft glow, new carpets and wall-to-wall pillows. The Moroccan-inspired menu has been translated to the tastes of diners living north of Union Square, and at its best (which is more often the case than not) is delicious. Executive-chef Stephen Ferdinand honed his craft at Aquavit and Le Zoo. Born in Pennsylvania, he uses organic ingredients and a light hand.
The short menu consists of mezze (appetizers, couscous (the national cereal-stew staple of North Africa and tagines (both the name of the vessel in which it is served and the simmered creation within). Many of the results are deconstructed and New-York-ized, but come out with flying colors.
We didn’t sample the most westernized dish, an appetizer portion of seared yellowfin tuna rubbed with harissa (the traditional hot condiment) and other spices. But we could’d resist the charred octopus with crunchy chickpeas and mint. Fried cigars, rolled in a phyllo dough then stuffed with spinach and goat cheese the weakest entrée, having no particular character, although it was a paragon of greaslessness. The giveaway bread was far better, as was a shared portion of the fabled Bystelya,
