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©2008 By Punchin Intnl. All Rights Reserved.

Punchin Intl. & The Walman Report By Nancy Walman

June 29th, 2008 at 2:07 pm

Sea Grill

seagril-logo

New York’s Most Rewarding Seafood Restaurant

Sea Grill Table View

ORIGINAL OPENING 1984
RE-OPENING 2000

LOCATION Rockefeller Center
19 West 49th Street between Fifth & Sixth Avenues New York, NY 10020

RESERVATIONS 212-332-7610

WEBSITE: www.theseagrillnyc.com

INFORMATION www.patinagroup.com

OWNER Patina Restaurant Group

EXEC. CHEF DE CUISINE Jawn ChasteenSea GrillJawn Chasteen,

PASTRY CHEF Michael Gabriel

MENU Inventive seafood

SEATING CAPACITY Main Room: 154
Bar Area: 20
Outdoor: 65
Total: 240

HOURS Lunch: Monday through Friday: 11:30 am to 2:30 pm
Dinner: Monday through Saturday: 5:00 pm to 10:00 pm

_________________________________________________________

THE SEA GRILL SAILS TO NEW HEIGHTS WITH CHEF JAWN CHASTEEN’S LOCAL, SUSTAINABLE TASTING MENU

Review By Nancy Walman

Sea Grill Interior wDiners

 

The Sea Grill started the trend in Manhattan of fresh seafood, prepared with care and flair in an upmarket atmosphere. When executive chef Ed Brown took hold of the kitchen, the restaurant evolved into one of Manhattan’s best in the fish field and inspired infinite spawns (not always calling themselves fish restaurants).

When Brown parted ways to open his own restaurant, the future of The Sea Grill was never in doubt, thanks to a history of savvy management by the Patina Group, but one wondered what direction the new chef might take. Well, CHEF DE CUISINE Jawn (pronounced John) Chasteen chose not to throw the turbot out with the sea water on the one hand and refuse to be a copycat on the other. Chef Chasteen has introduced a new tasting menu, featuring four courses of the restaurant’s favorite local fish. These fish are all-natural and sustainable: wild, plentiful and line-caught. Chef Jawn Chasteen sources from local day boat fishermen and purveyors to get the freshest fish available - from sea to table in a matter of days. None of these fish has been transported by airplane.

Chasteen built a menu around these fish, including produce from local farms, giving diners a chance to enjoy the depth of flavor and rich textures of natural foods. The restaurant’s favorite local wines are paired with the dishes to add another dimension of regional flavor. He also chose to do an a la carte menu that is refreshingly simple, yet inspired. No fish is sacrificed in vain at The Sea Grill and all sauces are superb, minimalist and bursting with flavor. Presentations are lovely, without getting in the way of the main star. June and July are the ideal time to enjoy local fish; as the water warms up, bait fish run closer to shore, bringing the larger ones along with them. Certain species such as striped bass migrate up from the South, heading towards Maine.

“I love the flavors and freshness of local fish, and I also feel that it is important to support my community’s farmers and fishermen,” said Chasteen. “Buying locally doesn’t stop at the vegetables on your plate. Fish is something that can be sourced close to home as well, so I try to buy from the closest ports to The Sea Grill.” The restaurant uses sustainable, natural products whenever possible, but this new tasting menu will put a spotlight on them exclusively. Sustainable fish are grown or caught in ways that do not harm the environment and take no more fish out of the ocean that are born each year.

Currently Chasteen shops at the Union Square Greenmarket for much of his produce, but once the Rockefeller Center Farmers Market opens in July, he’ll be able to shop right in The Sea Grill’s backyard.

“The most natural fish and produce have a flavor that can’t be mistaken,” said Chef Chasteen. “I like to think that sustainable practices leave a good taste on your conscience.”

The Adam Tahani decor offers a multitude of blue hues found throughout this space, conjuring memories of the many seas of the world, from the light aqua green of the Gulf Coast to the deep royal blues of the Mediterranean, providing Sea Grill with a calming, comfortable atmosphere. A transparent floor, beige in color and speckled with white circles in a variety of sizes, is reminiscent of the ocean as it strikes the shore, while a free-form communal table suspended by stainless steel cables sits next to the rectangular bar. Windows on the north side of the space look out onto the world famous Rockefeller Center Ice Rink. When the curtains are drawn open on the south side, guests can catch a glimpse as to the goings-on in the belly of Rockefeller Center itself.

We tested the kitchen to its limits by requesting the tasting menu for me and asking our server to suggest complementary courses of the same number for my husband. First courses set the stage for the magic to follow:(Alternately, tasting menu — versus a la carte) Delaware striped bass with miso, apple and warm ginger vinaigrette was ethereal in its simplicity; cherry gazpacho with aged balsamic and jonah crab was elegant, never cloying and a total original. Second courses: Tempura of Barnegat Light soft shell crabs with pickled vegetables and aïoli. And who taught chef Chasteen that soft shell crab, whatever the preparation, must be crisp (in my book) or forget it. Ceviche of “Caribbean Laughing” shrimp with passion fruit was nothing to laugh at. Most every restaurant is doing ceviche wrong. Right? Well, at The Sea Grill, you could find (and taste) the fish. The marinade was subtle, yet at the same time assertive.

Long Island sole with roasted green asparagus, Catskill ramps and saffron hollandaise had its culinary roots in Barcelona. No over-the-top foams, but dabs of a heady saffron hollandaise. The asparagus may have been broiled, but it was blanched first, taking it out of the under-cooked category we encounter so often. The all-crab jumbo lump crab cake is breaded with corn flakes and shatters as you poke your fork into the parchment crust.
 It’s soooooo crabby and the grainy mustard sauce is terrific.

Final courses, Grilled Rhode Island bluefish, lightly smoked with warm fingerling potatoes and crème fraîche and grilled Mediterranean branzino with wilted escarole, orange segments and taiiasca olive tapenade were both as good as they sound. I love bluefish and served with fingerling potatoes, well that’s a marriage made in The Sea Grill.

The wine list is full of affordable surprises and it is worth asking the sommelier for suggestions, as we did. He turned up with a delightful Alsatian blend (unusual for Alsace): Paul Kubler - Alsace Kintet, 2004 Grape variety: Pinot Blanc, Sylvaner, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Muscat. It displayed subtle fruit, good acid and worked perfectly with every plate.

While traditional American fish restaurants aren’t strong on desserts, The Sea Grill’s pastry chef, Michael Gabriel, creates classy and breezy summer fantasies that are not only delicious, but pretty as a picture. We tasted about five, and our memories dance around images of fresh peach granita, mint panna cotta with local blueberries and Vidal Blanc granité, a Guanaja chocolate praline bar with raspberry gelée and milk chocolate-praline glaze and a superlative after-gift of perhaps a half dozen mini-cones filled with intense sorbets and pistachio Madelines.

Service is some of the smoothest in the city: Never stuffy, pushy or pretentious, but allways efficient and guiding. The local, sustainable menu will run through the end of July. So run to The Sea Grill ASAP. Manhattan can boast two world class seafood restaurants and The Sea Grill is the most accessible.

Chef’s Tasting MenuSea Grill Sustainable

 

Delaware striped bass with miso, apple and warm ginger vinaigrette
Dr. Konstantin Frank, Semi-Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes, 2006
*
Tempura of Barnegat Light soft shell crabs with pickled vegetables and aïoli
Shinn Estate, Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon, North Fork Long Island
*
Long Island sole with roasted green asparagus,
Catskill ramps and saffron hollandaise
Channing Daughters, Rosato, Long Island 2007
*
Grilled Rhode Island bluefish, lightly smoked
with warm fingerling potatoes and crème fraîche
Raphael, Cabernet Franc, “La Fontana,” North Fork, 2004
*
Vanilla panna cotta with local berries and Wölffer Estate granité
*
The ingredients on this menu are local, wild and sustainable
$75 per person/$100 with wine pairings

The Sea Grill is located at: 19 West 49th Street at Rockefeller Center, New York, NY 10020.

Copyright 2008 By Punchin International. All Rights Reserved.

 

Lunch Menu (Subject to Change)

SUSHI AND SASHIMI
INDIVIDUAL PIECES
Shrimp 4.50 per piece
Striped bass, fluke 4.75 per piece
King salmon 5. per piece
Bigeye tuna 5.25 per piece
Kona kanpachi 5.75 per piece
SUSHI ROLLS
Vegetarian 11.
Spicy tuna 11.
Shrimp avocado 11.
Crab avocado 12.

SUSHI & SASHIMI PLATTER 39.
Kona kanpachi, bigeye tuna, king salmon, striped bass, fluke,
crab avocado roll and spicy tuna roll
SUSHI PLATTER 39.
Kona kanpachi, bigeye tuna, fluke, king salmon,
striped bass, shrimp, crab avocado roll and spicy tuna roll
SASHIMI PLATTER 42.
Kona kanpachi, bigeye tuna, king salmon, striped bass and fluke

SEAFOOD BAR
OYSTERS/ CLAMS
Kumamoto oysters, Washington 3.75 ea
Pemaquid oysters, Maine 3.75 ea
Blue Island Clams 2.75 ea
SEAFOOD
Jumbo Mexican Gulf shrimp 5. ea
Jumbo lump crab meat 19. per order
Gulf of Maine mussels 8. per order
Chilled 1/2 Nova Scotia lobster 22. per order
PLATEAU
Appetizer 32. Grand 68. Royale 85.

TABLE SHARES
Snow peas and snap peas with peanut and soy-lime dressing 9.
‘Pad Thai’ noodles with spicy peanut sauce 12.
Portobello fries with ponzu dipping sauce 16.
Green asparagus with truffle butter 17.
_______________________________________________________

Dinner Menu (Subject to Change)

FIRST COURSES
Cherry Gazpacho soup 12.
Sea Grill chowder with lobster, shrimp and clams 14.
Jones Farm baby lettuce
with fresh herbs and crème fraîche emulsion 14.
Roasted and marinated beets with endive,
toasted pumpkin seeds and petite greens 15.
Steamed Gulf of Maine mussels
with Thai red curry bullion and toasted olive bread 14.
Crispy tuna roll with edamame, miso and wasabi vinaigrette 17.
Asian salmon tartare with sesame seaweed salad 15.
Nova Scotia lobster salad with Cognac aïoli,
asparagus and roasted tomato vinaigrette 24.
Grilled calamari with mizuna, red pepper relish
and walnut tapenade 18.
Ceviche of “Caribbean Laughing” shrimp with passion fruit 17.
Sashimi of Delaware striped bass with organic miso
and warm ginger viniagrette 15.

MAIN COURSES
Jumbo lump crab cakes with grainy mustard
and Yukon Gold potato chips 38.
Grilled Scottish salmon with wilted arugula, watercress,
orange segments and tagiasca olive tapenade 35.
Arborio risotto with porcinis, morels,
English peas and fine herbs 36.
Black sea bass with roasted jumbo asparagus,
cherries, morel mushrooms and aged balsamic vinegar 35.
Curry crusted skate wing with English peas, fava beans,
carrots, braised romaine and saffron hollandaise 36.
Seared bluefin tuna lightly smoked
with warm fingerling potato salad and crème fraîche 45.
Organic chicken breast with creamy polenta,
braised swiss chard, wild mushrooms and poached egg 34.
Seared twenty eight day dry aged prime New York strip steak
with grilled asparagus and roasted garlic-spinach purée 45.

PLANCHA SPECIALTIES
Prepared a la Plancha and served
with wilted spinach and extra virgin lemon-caper oil
Hamptons Bay line caught bluefish 30.
Wild ocean striped bass 32.
East coast halibut 34.

TABLE SHARES
Snow peas and snap peas with peanut and soy-lime dressing 9.
Roasted haricot vert with preserved lemons and fennel 12.
Portobello fries with ponzu dipping sauce 16.

SEAFOOD BAR
OYSTERS / CLAMS
Malpeque oysters, Prince Edward Island 3.75 ea
Kumamoto oysters, Washington 3.75 ea
Pemaquid oysters, Maine 3.75 ea
Blue Island Clams 2.75 ea
SEAFOOD
Jumbo Mexican Gulf shrimp 5. ea
Gulf of Maine mussels 8. per order
Chilled 1/2 Maine lobster 22. per order
Jumbo lump crab meat 19. per order
PLATEAU
Appetizer 32. Grand 68. Royale 85.

 

THE SEA GRILL TASTING MENU
FEATURING SUSTAINABLE INGREDIENTS
FROM LOCAL FARMS AND WATERS

Delaware striped bass with organic miso
and warm ginger vinaigrette
Riesling, Dr. Konstantin Frank, Finger Lakes, 2006

Tempura of Barnegat Light soft-shell crabs
with pickled vegetables and aïoli
Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon, Shinn Estate,
North Fork, Long Island, 2007

Line caught Long Island summer fluke
with roasted green asparagus and saffron hollandaise
Rosato, Channing Daughters, North Fork, Long Island, 2007

Grilled Hamptons Bay line caught bluefish lightly smoked
with warm fingerling potato salad and crème fraîche
“La Fontana”, Raphael, North Fork, Long Island, 2002

Mint panna cotta with local blueberries
and Vidal Blanc granité

75. per person
100. with wine pairings

Sea Grill Dinner Menu - June 19th, 2008
Chef de Cuisine Jawn Chasteen

_________________________________________________________

COFFEE AND TEA

FRENCH PRESS COFFEE SELECTION 6.
Kenya AA
Clou de Mont (Puerto Rico)
Costa Rican decaf French roast
Cappuccino 5.25
Espresso 4.50
Tea selection - Formosa Oolong, Genmaicha Green, Earl Grey,
Ceylon & India, Peppermint, Chamomile and French Verveine 5.25

DESSERT WINE AND PORT
1999 Chateau Pajzos, Tokaji, Hungary 32.
2006 Kracher Beerenauslese, Burgenland, Austria 16.
2006 Mt. Horrock’s ‘Cordon Cut’ Riesling, Clare Valley, Australia 14.
2002 Inniskillin Vidal Ice Wine, Niagara, Canada 25.
2004 King Estate Vin Glacé, Pinot Gris, Oregon 17.
2001 Constantia, Vin de Constance, South Africa 14.
2003 Cockburns Quinta Dos Canais Port 16.
1992 Smith Woodhouse Vintage Port 12.
1980 Smith & Woodhouse Vintage Port 32.
1980 Ferreira Vintage Port 38.
Cockburns 20 Year Tawny Port 15.
Churchhill’s 10 Year Tawny Port 13.

DINNER DESSERT 13.
Strawberry crêpe cake
with whipped white chocolate cream and rhubarb confit
Tahitian vanilla “crème brûlée” parfait with almond streusel,
cherries and cherry sorbet
Warm chocolate steamed pudding
with Valrhona chocolate sauce and pistachio ice cream
Hazelnut tort with red plums,
candied Filbert mascarpone and Mirabelle caramel
Guanaja chocolate praline bar
with raspberry gelée and milk chocolate-praline glaze
Mint panna cotta with local strawberries and Vidal Blanc granité
The Sea Grill key lime pie
with Angostura bitters glaze and fresh cream
Selection of ice cream or sorbets
SELECTION OF ARTISAN CHEESES
Selection of three 13. Selection of five 18.
Pastry Chef Michael Gabriel

_________________________________________________________

About Patina Restaurant Group

Patina Restaurant Group (www.patinagroup.com) is the nation’s leading multi-concept operator in the premium segments of the restaurant and food service industry. On the East Coast its portfolio features New York City’s world-famous Rockefeller Center Ice Rink, Rock Center Café, The Sea Grill, Brasserie, Brasserie 8 1/2, Naples 45 and The Grand Tier Restaurant at the Metropolitan Opera. Other East Coast properties include Tutto Italia Ristorante at the Epcot World Showcase in Orlando, FLA and Tanglewood Music Center in Lenox, MA.

On the West Coast the portfolio includes the renowned Patina Restaurant in Walt Disney Concert Hall, Paperfish in Beverly Hills, Nick & Stef’s Steakhouse, Café Pinot at the Maguire Gardens, Zucca Ristorante, Catal and three other restaurants in Anaheim’s Downtown Disney District®, Leatherby’s Cafe Rouge at the Orange County Performing Artscenter, Pinot Brasserie in Las Vegas and catering and food service in museums and cultural centers throughout Southern California.

_________________________________________________________

Radio Review

Award-winning website, Punchin-dot-com, features the Walman Report and reviews of restaurants, travel, wine and theater. The Sea Grill has introduced a new tasting menu, featuring four courses of the restaurant’s favorite local fish. These fish are all-natural and sustainable: wild, plentiful and line-caught.

Chef Jawn Chasteen sources from local day boat fishermen and purveyors to get the freshest fish available. None of these fish has been transported by airplane. Chasteen, who may be the most creative seafood chef in NY, built a menu that allows the restaurant’s favorite local wines to be paired with the dishes to add another dimension of regional flavor.

Some favorites include a remarkable Delaware striped bass with miso, apple and warm ginger vinaigrette; truly-crispy Tempura of Light soft shell crabs with pickled vegetables and aioli; Long Island sole with roasted green asparagus, Catskill ramps and saffron hollandaise; Grilled Rhode Island bluefish, lightly smoked, with warm fingerling potatoes and crème fraîche and Vanilla panna cotta with local berries. $75 per person/$100 with wine pairings.

The local, sustainable menu will run through the end of July. So run to The Sea Grill, 19 West 49th Street at Rockefeller Center, ASAP, which rates “A Major” on the Walman Report.

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