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Bargains & Discounts in Travel, Food & Wine |
All grades are location, price & ethnic sensitive. Ratings also apply unilaterally: World-Class A+ is a separate category from City, Country or Area A+. Copyright 2001 by Punch In® & Wine On Line® International Syndicates. |
| Named after its glamorous
co-owner, Marika Somerstein, Marika demonstrates how far the Upper West
Side has developed in the Manhattan food scene. But Marika isn’t just about
food (which is excellent). The striking space, designed by Rogers Marvel
Architects, a TriBeCa firm whose work includes such diverse projects as
The Studio Museum in Harlem, Kate Spades’ retail stores (responsible for
the bus boys uniforms) and The Pratt Institute Library and Design Center
theme is dynamic-urban. The visual effect echoes Mondrian’s “Broadway Boogie
Woogie”, but with a more pastoral American palette.
The feeling of lakes, rivers, mountains and prairies are thematically portrayed with glass, wood and stone. The restaurant’s façade is an important symbol of what is inside. Glass and nickel are intertwined in a format that resembles a modern day version of the classic American cafe. Overall, Marika is an exciting series of rooms tied together by colors and materials. Once inside the viewer observes a ninety-foot long illuminated glass strip that unites three different sections of the restaurant: the lounge, the café/bar and the main dining room. Hidden, yet on display to the diner, is a fifty foot long wine cabinet, a private party room that seats forty-five, and gives diners a glimpse into the artistry happening in the kitchen, and a second private dining room for fifteen in the adjoining wine cellar. The ceiling playfully rises and falls along the rhythm of the building and is painted in a variety of soft, organic colors. All the furniture has been designed specifically for Marika. There are five different styles of chairs, which have been inspired by the modern Wormley chair, each covered with a similar fabric and wonderful red banquettes. Cast-concrete and cast-glass tabletops sit on mahogany tripods. Like all of the finishes in the restaurant, the materials’ natural textures and colorations act as a metaphor of the American landscape. As a final touch, modern American painters decorate the walls with original paintings. The Limoges china is lovely and in keeping with the style of the restaurant; the waiters uniforms, designed by Ms. Somerstein, are eye-catching. Let us not forget executive/chef Joel Somerstein, whose career in New York took off at the Hotel Pierre where he was the Chef de Cuisine for three years. Previously, Somerstein was Chef Poissonier at Lafayette in New York City under the direction of Jean-Georges Vongerichten. His training began in France where he honed his culinary skills at renowned restaurants throughout the country. These included two that carry Michelin’s three-star rating: Georges Blanc in Vonnas and Lucas Carton in Paris. So it is not surprising that Somerstein’s cuisine is at once classic and contemporary -- never fussy or gimmicky. Scrupulously avoiding the tendency of many America chefs to add at least three ingredients too many, Chef Somerstein is creating his own version of soul food, albeit an elegant rendition with an international bent. Foie gras (a special) was served on a bed of Israeli couscous; the fruit-based sauce provided a subtle kick, rather than a the typical scream “I’m sweet.” Crispy sweetbreads, are served on a ragout of wild mushrooms with parsley dumplings and truffled veal jus. They are cut small, as I prefer them, moist within and don’t merely talk a good game, but are truly crispy. In the entree department, lamb is prepared three ways: roasted rack, stuffed loin and braised leg. I’d be hard put to pick my favorite, but the olive whipped potatoes and cumin scented jus complemented each beautifully. Somerstein quickly sautés skate in the classic tradition. Parchment crust; tender flesh. The tomato confit and caper beurre fondue add an element of adventure, without distracting from the main player. Marika’s wine list is large and mostly devoted to American bottles. A Dashe Cellars Zinfandel 1998 from The Todd Brothers Ranch in Alexander Valley ($58) displayed finesse and elegance. Desserts, a pistachio soufflé; pistachio financier and pistachio ice cream for example, are sensational, as are the homemade bisquits. J. Walman's and Nancy Preiser's reviews are available and have been seen on the Internet. Click here to see an index of other reviews on the worldwide web <http://www.punchin.com>. <http://wineonline.net>. J. Walman's reviews have been heard on WNCN, WEVD & WQXR radio, seen in Fodor's and Mobil Guide Books, and printed in Chocolatier, Troika and Metropolitan Millionaire magazines, The National Forward and newspapers and magazines throughout the world, including the NY Post, Women's Wear Daily and the NY Times, via the Punch In International Network. This review may be reprinted free of charge, so long as source and byline credit are included: "J. Walman's Restaurant Report," "Punch In International®," Wine On Line International®, "www.punchin.com & www.wineonline.net." *Given the volatility of the restaurant scene, Punch In will assign expiration dates to all forthcoming reviews, ranging from one month to one year. This is not a guarantee that your experience at a given restaurant will mirror ours, nor is it an indication that a restaurant will no longer be awarded the same rating. It does enable us to fine tune and update or reviews with maximum precision. Readers now have a new interactive interface, which includes the following options. 1. E-mail this site to a friend
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