The Walman Report®
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By Nancy Walman
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nternationally
reputed for his innovative, groundbreaking cuisine, Jean-Georges Vongerichten
has emerged as one of the country’s leading chefs. His culinary vision has
consistently set new standards and helped defined today’s generation of
cooking. In March of 1997, Jean-Georges opened restaurant Jean Georges in the
Trump International Hotel and Tower, earning a four-star review from The New
York Times less than three months after opening. Nearly a decade later:
Jean-Georges remains an unqualified success, having just earned
the coveted 3 star award from the prestigious Guide Michelin. Now don’t expect
Las Vegas glitz. Everything about Jean-Georges speaks of understatement, style
and class. Adam Tihany’s minimalist design begins with the multi-level grid
pattern at the reception area and coat
check, leading to the Cafe and Lounge, with its 19-foot zinc bar, low-backed
freestanding leather banquettes and Anigre doors. There are hand-laid mosaics
of white marble and terrazzo; a square patterned coffered ceiling and three
silver-leaf screens frame the exhibition kitchen. Taupe, ecru and silver colors
create warmth in the high-ceilinged main dining room with its floor to ceiling
windows on three sides. Service is luxurious and the 26 page wine list is
beautifully selected; with offerings from the great houses (a 1900 Chateau
Margaux, priced at $19,500 for example) as well as some wonderful finds priced
below $70 and a fine selection of ½ bottles and wines by the glass. There is a
$95 three-course dinner and two $125 “Tasting” menus from which to choose. Vongerichten
classics include sea scallops in a caper-raisin emulsion with carmelized
cauliflower. A spring garlic soup with thyme is so delicate, yet so filled with
taste, thanks to its accompaniment of sautéed frog's legs with parsley.
Vongerichten's lobster tartine with lemongrass and fenugreek broth bows a
little toward Asia and his foie gras preparations, one sauteed with sweet onion
bread and cerignola olives, the other a terrine with dried sour cherries and
candied pistachios, are marvel of tastes and textures. Beef tenderloin with
black truffle fondue was devastating, but if we were to pick one dish that
deserves a visit to Jean-Georges, it would be a coddled egg, served in its
shell with crème fraiche and topped with caviar. The cheese assortment is miraculous,
followed by a barrage of desserts that include bitter chocolate cream tart with
coffee bubbles. Do save room for the final triumph --- Hand cut homemade
marshmallows --- to conclude a world-class dining experience.
Wine On Line®
Nancy Walman, Publisher
Copyright 2006 by
Wine On Line® News Syndicate
http://www.wineonline.net/ E-Mail: mailto:wine@punchin.com
Suggested Links: www.danperlman.net (Wine Oriented))
www.saltshaker.net (Food, Wine & Life)
WineWeekly.com (Wine Reviews)
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These reviews are available and have been seen on the Internet. Click here to see an index of other reviews on the worldwide web <http://www.punchin.com>. <http://www.wineonline.net>. They have been heard on WNCN, WEVD and seen in Fodor's and Mobil Guide Books, and printed in Chocolatier, Troika, Trump World and Metropolitan Millionaire magazines and newspapers and throughout the world, including the NY Post, Women's Wear Daily and the NY Times, via the Punch In International Network. This review may be reprinted free of charge, so long as source and byline credit are included: "The Walman Report," "Punch In International®," Wine On Line International®.
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