Wine On Line®Nancy Walman, Publisher


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Copyright 2004 by Wine On Line® News Syndicate

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3 Bargains From Wildman

Santi Pinot Grigio 'Sortesele' 2003: $13

Producer Background: Santi traces its origins to 1843, when Carlo Santi established a wine cellar in Illasi, near Verona and Lake Garda. The original winery, very attractively renovated, still houses the winemaking facilities and aging cellar and stands on the plain below Castello d'Illasi, a ruined medieval fortress. Santi specializes in Veneto and Trentino wines.

Wine Type: Dry White

Grape Type: 100% Pinot Grigio.

Country: Italy

Region: Delle Venezie

Vinification: The ripe grapes are picked at the end of September and are immediately delivered to the cellar to avoid the maceration process. Vinification is "in bianco" (without their skins) with cold decanting of the must at controlled temperatures. Selected yeasts are used in order to enhance the varietal aromas of the grape. It is kept in stainless steel until March.

Tasting Notes: Bright straw yellow, elegant, dry and exotic fruits, excellent match for antipasti, seafood, refined first courses, salads, or all by itself!

'Sortesele' is a vineyard divided into many small portions of about 4000 square meters each. From this peculiarity its name is directly derived and in Trentino dialect it means "small parts of vineyard." Situated in the Adige Valley, north of Mezzacorona (Trentino), it covers about 84 acres. The harvest is conducted manually in a scale appropriate for the selection of grapes like Pinot Grigio, which ripen irregularly.

Food Match: sushi, shellfish, fish, chicken, BBQ, Asian/spicy cuisine, Antipasto.

 

La Scolca Gavi 'Valentino' 2002: $14

Producer Background: La Scolca led the movement to establish an exciting, new quality level for dry Italian white wines when the Soldati family launched their Gavi dei Gavi in 1966. Gavi comes from a small growing area in northwestern Italy located north of Genoa on the steep slopes of the Ligurian Apennines.

The 62-acre La Scolca estate, owned and directed by Giorgio Soldati, is situated in one of the best communes, Rovereto. La Scolca is an artisanal winery which pioneered modern, controlled, vinification in stainless steel to preserve the subtle fruit of the Cortese grape. Yields are kept low, well below the legal maximum, through severe pruning and thinning.

Wine Type: Dry White

Grape Type: 100% Cortese.

Country: Italy

Region: Piedmont

Vinification: The fruit is harvested from the high hills of Rovereto Superiore di Gavi. Vinification is traditional, in stainless steel with temperature control.

Tasting Notes: Light straw color. Typical Gavi nose; fine, pleasantly fresh. Delicate in the mouth, dry, well-formed, rich in body, long.

Potel-Aviron Morgon Chateau-Gaillard 2001: $19

Producer Background: Nicolas Potel, in just a few vintages, "has already established himself as a superstar" in the view of Clive Coates MW. Nicolas is now applying his talents to the crus of the Beaujolais. Joining with Stephane Aviron, another youthful Burgundian ruthlessly dedicated to quality, Nicolas has taken over a small cellar and is producing a range of cru Beaujolais under the Potel-Aviron label. This enterprise is and will remain very small and artisanal, focusing on lots of several hundred cases of any one bottling. The philosophy of the house is to seek out the finest terroirs capable of giving wines of real concentration, depth of flavor and individuality.

This begins with an extremely rigorous selection of parcels situated in the very best sites of each commune, with very old vines from 35 to 70 years of age. Nicolas and Stephane also insist on pruning which will limit yields, a primary criterion of selection.

Wine Type: Dry Red

Grape Type: 100% Gamay.

Country: France

Region: Beaujolais

Vinification: Morgon is unusual in that its underlying soils are schistous rock colored red by iron oxide. The vineyards lie in the commune of Villie-Morgon. Morgon has long been admired for its rich color, extract and longevity.

Tasting Notes: The vines here are 65 years old and the wine is ample, full of fruit with suppleness in the center and a firmness at the very end.

Food Match: turkey, roasts, pork, lamb.

All are “Suggested” Retail Prices. Seek then out in restaurants. Buy them!


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