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By Nancy Walman
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Alsatian Wines Provide Charm
and Comforting Prices
Here are three wines from
Hugel, one of Alsace’s most dependable (and affordable) producers, all brought
in by the estimable Frederick Wildman. The Gentil, 2003, ($11) is one of the
wine world’s best bargains in whites. The Riesling, 2002, ($18), well, almost
all wine writers like Rieslings, so will you. The spicy Gewurztraminer, 2002
($18), is somewhat of an acquired taste, but once you have it, it sticks. It is
ideal for the earthy fromage. All would work with Asian cuisine, as well as
delicatessen, warm smoked meats and fish and are perfect wines to just sip on a
hot summer day. Here’s some background material on the wines.
The first traces of the
Hugel family in Alsace can be traced back to the 15th century. Some two
centuries later, Hans Ulrich Hugel settled in Riquewihr, which had been
devastated by the terrible Thirty Years War. In 1639 he was made a freeman of
the city and soon took charge of the very powerful Corporation of Winegrowers.
In 1672 his son built a fine house in the Rue des Cordiers, and over the
doorway was carved the family crest which was the origin of the company’s logo
still used today.
During the XVIIIth and
XIXth centuries, the Hugel family gained an enviable reputation for their
winegrowing skills and for the meticulous way in which they cultivated their
vineyards. In 1902, Frédéric Emile Hugel left the old family property and
established himself in premises in the centre of Riquewihr which still form the
heart of the family business.
Today the winery is still
family-owned and operated, and the company is listed as one of the oldest in
the world. Hugel belongs to the PRIMUM FAMILIAE VINI, an association of 12
family wine companies in the major wine producing regions of the world, and the
Henokiens, an international association of family businesses that are all more
than two hundred years old.
Hugel et Fils Gentil 2003
Producer Background: The Hugels have been winegrowers in Riquewihr, Alsace, for over 350 years, with twelve generations continuing an unbroken tradition. They own a 65-acre estate planted mainly with Riesling and Gewurztraminer, with small plots of Tokay Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. Their vines are placed on the grand cru slopes of Sporen and Schoenenbourg, although these names do not appear on the labels: only the Hugel “signature” appears as guarantee of the highest quality. The supply from the family domain is supplemented by grapes (and not wine) purchased and vinified in their cellars.
Wine Type: Dry White
Grape Type: Mostly Gewurztraminer, with Pinot Gris, Riesling, Muscat, and Sylvaner blended in.
Country: France
Region: Alsace
Vinification:
2003 was the earliest
vintage in Alsace since 1893!
It was a very unusual year that will long remain in our memory. Budburst was
early, flowering begain at the end of May, summer was scorchingly hot and dry,
and picking for the still wines began on 8 September. For young vines and for
vines planted on lighter soils the crop was particularly small. Results vary
widely from vineyard to vineyard, but in general it was a better year for
clay-limestone soils.
Overall volume was 25% below average. The wines are rich and full, with low
acidity levels, much like in 1947. A small quantity of late-harvest Vendange
Tardive wines was produced, but no Sélection de Grains Nobles due to the
absence of botrytis (noble rot). The wines should be quick to develop and ready
to drink quite soon.
Generic "Hugel" wines are made exclusively from grapes purchased from
winegrowers under long-term contract, in a dozen of the most favoured
localities around Riquewihr. This wine revives an ancient Alsace tradition that
wines assembled from noble grape varieties were called "Gentil".
Gentil "Hugel" allies the suave, spicy flavour of Gewurztraminer, the
body of Pinot Gris, the finesse of Riesling, the grapiness of Muscat and the
refreshing character of Sylvaner. The grapes are taken in small tubs to the
presses, which are filled by gravity, without any pumping or other mechanical
intervention. After pressing, the must is decanted for a few hours, then
fermented in temperature-controlled barrels or vats (at 18 to 24°C). The wine
is racked just once, before natural clarification during the course of the
winter. The following spring, the wine is lightly filtered just before bottling,
and the bottles are then aged in our cellars until released for sale.
Tasting Notes: Exactly what one would expect, with a tonically youthful pale pastel green colour. A frank, open bouquet that displays all its charms with juvenile casualness : perfumed, aromatic and freely approachable. Such liveliness accurately indicates a crisp, refreshing palate that exhilarates the tastebuds by bringing out its fresh grapey character and thirst-quenching qualities. This is a wine that deserves to be enjoyed before the end of the year, which I encourage you to do, because here at last is a quaffing wine for sheer enjoyment. Serve it chilled at 6 ou 8°C as an apéritif, with shellfish, with fish in court-bouillon or marinated, with asparagus, or simply on its own.
Food Match: sushi, soups, shellfish, salads, pork, fish, BBQ, asparagus, Asian cuisine, Antipasto.
Hugel et Fils Riesling 2002
Producer Background: The Hugels have been winegrowers in Riquewihr, Alsace, for over 350 years, with twelve generations continuing an unbroken tradition. They own a 65-acre estate planted mainly with Riesling and Gewurztraminer, with small plots of Tokay Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. Their vines are placed on the grand cru slopes of Sporen and Schoenenbourg, although these names do not appear on the labels: only the Hugel “signature” appears as guarantee of the highest quality. The supply from the family domain is supplemented by grapes (and not wine) purchased and vinified in their cellars.
Wine Type: Dry White
Grape Type: 100% Riesling.
Country: France
Region: Alsace
Vinification:
In Alsace, the year 2002
began with an extremely cold January, and the ground was frozen solid for one
whole month. Spring was alternately sunny and rainy with no spring frost.
Flowering took place in mid-June, very quickly and very evenly, with neither
coulure problems, nor even any millerandage. As a large harvest looked likely,
in early July we began an unprecedentedly severe green harvest programme that
continued until mid-September. Alsace escaped the bad summer weather that
affected other parts of Europe, and by mid-September we were expecting an
abundant crop of good quality. Harvest began on 30 September with good weather
conditions but a few days of gloomy weather caused deterioration in the
sanitary state of some grapes and kept levels of acidity high. Overall,
ripeness levels were excellent and beaumés range from 11.4% for Pinot Noir to
13.4% for Gewurztraminer.
After pressing, the must is
decanted for a few hours, then fermented in temperature-controlled barrels or
vats (at 18 to 24°C). The wine is racked just once, before natural
clarification during the course of the winter. The following spring, the wine
is lightly filtered just before bottling, and the bottles are then aged in the
Hugel cellars until released for sale.
Tasting Notes: Its youthfulness is quite obvious from its prevailing green hints and a freshness and liveliness on the bouquet that is dominated by citrus fruit, grapefruit, elderflower, moss… Fresh, uncompromisingly dry, refreshingly light and eminently drinkable now or in the next two years, it should be served chilled at 8°C with seafood, shellfish, raw or marinated fish and fish terrines.
Food Match: veal, sushi, salmon, pork, fish, duck, Asian cuisine.
Hugel et Fils Gewurztraminer 2002
Producer Background: The Hugels have been winegrowers in Riquewihr, Alsace, for over 350 years, with twelve generations continuing an unbroken tradition. They own a 65-acre estate planted mainly with Riesling and Gewurztraminer, with small plots of Tokay Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. Their vines are placed on the grand cru slopes of Sporen and Schoenenbourg, although these names do not appear on the labels: only the Hugel “signature” appears as guarantee of the highest quality. The supply from the family domain is supplemented by grapes (and not wine) purchased and vinified in their cellars.
Wine Type: Dry White
Grape Type: 100% Gewurztraminer.
Country: France
Region: Alsace
Vinification: In Alsace, the year 2002 began with an extremely cold January, and the ground was frozen solid for one whole month. Spring was alternately sunny and rainy with no spring frost. Flowering took place in mid-June, very quickly and very evenly, with neither coulure problems, nor even any millerandage. As a large harvest looked likely, in early July we began an unprecedentedly severe green harvest programme that continued until mid-September. Alsace escaped the bad summer weather that affected other parts of Europe, and by mid-September we were expecting an abundant crop of good quality. Harvest began on 30 September with good weather conditions but a few days of gloomy weather caused deterioration in the sanitary state of some grapes and kept levels of acidity high. Overall, ripeness levels were excellent and beaumés range from 11.4% for Pinot Noir to 13.4% for Gewurztraminer. A good surprise came at the very end of our harvest. In the last days of October strong dry southerly winds allowed us to harvest our best Gewurztraminer vineyards at Vendange Tardive levels (over 16% potential) and even a fair quantity of Sélection de Grains nobles at a record 24% potential.
Tasting Notes: Exemplary in every respect, the authentic character of this grape variety faithfully delivers its promise. Very young, its aromatic and perfumed exuberance is frank and immediate, with fresh fruit aromas (pear, apricot, lychee, mango, passion fruit), subtle floral hints (rose, lilac) and spices, light and frivolous. Dry and reviving, joyful, youthful and confident, it fills the palate and explodes on the aftertaste. A wine to enjoy now, within the next year, as an aperitif, or with fish or shellfish in tasty, spicy sauces, or with Indian, Thai or Chinese dishes etc…
Food Match: sushi, shellfish, salmon, pate, fish, Asian cuisine.
Side Dish
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