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Frei Brothers Produces a
Wide Range of First Class Wines Part 1
A tasting of four wines,
proved them food-friendly and affordable (the Chardonnay has a suggested retail
price of $20; the Pinot Noir, $24)
Frei Brothers
Russian River Valley
Reserve Chardonnay
Vintage: 2002 2001 2000
Appellation:
Russian River Valley
Varietal Content:
98.4% Chardonnay; 1.3%
Semillon
Titratable Acidity: 0.61
Residual Sugar: 0.45
pH: 3.35
Alcohol Level: 13.9
2002 began with lots of rain followed by a stretch of dry cold
weather. This, however, did not seem to impact greatly on the vines allowing
bud break, bloom, and veraison to occur at about the same time as seen in
previous years. The time following veraison is most critical for the ripening
of the fruit, and in the 2002 growing season it was very mild, which allowed
the grapes to ripen more slowly and to produce rich ripe flavors, ideal for
producing wines with greater complexity. Following the summer was had a heat
spike around Labor Day which sped up the ripening. Due to this cool start and
then spike in temperature, the wines had both ripe flavors and good acidity.
The harvest was completed by the last week of October.
Frei Brothers craft their wines in a gentle, traditional style
enhanced through the use of modern technology that makes fruit the focus and
showcases the best that each varietal and appellation have to offer. To ensure
that the grapes are gently squeezed and allow the natural fruit character to
shine through, a gravity fed, whole cluster press pad is used for 100% of their
Chardonnay to eliminate the bitterness that typically results from
crusher-destemmers.
The juice was primarily
barrel fermented and aged in 60% new and 40% prior use European, French, and
American oak for an average of 6 months. Temperature was monitored not to
exceed 68° F to produce a slower, cooler fermentation that enhanced
complexities of body, flavor, and aroma. Fermentation occurred through a
combination of wild yeasts found naturally on the grape skins and a Burgundian
cultured yeast, CY3079. The wine underwent malolactic fermentation, lending it
a buttery flavor that complements its crisp, clean finish.
Frei Brothers Reserve wines possess a fruit-forward character
with intense aromas and flavors that reflect the land and the climate that
created the grapes. The 2002 Chardonnay is big and intense with a soft
mouthfeel and a long crisp finish. It expresses complex varietal characters of
bright pear, peach and citrus, and a hint of vanilla and spice that fits well
with assertive fish such as salmon or tuna, veal, turkey and goat cheese.
Frei Brother Reserve Pinot
Noir
Appellation:
Russian River Valley
Varietal Content:
98% Pinot Noir, 1% Syrah
Titratable Acidity: 0.62
Residual Sugar: 0.05
pH: 3.62
Alcohol Level: 14.2
Distinctive Sonoma Character
Keeping with the tradition
established by Andrew Frei in 1890, Frei Brothers Reserve wines are crafted to
reveal the personality of the land and bring out the natural expression of the
fruit. This is why he chose the Russian River Valley as the home of his Pinot
Noir.
The Russian River Valley is
one of the world’s most preeminent winegrowing regions. Close to the ocean, the
valley’s summer warmth is moderated by fog and other cooling maritime
influences, creating an ideal climate for Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah
grapes.
2002 began with rain
followed by a stretch of dry cold weather; however, this did not impact the
vines. Bud break, bloom, and veraison still occurred at the same time as in
previous years. The time following veraison is most critical for the ripening
of the fruit, and in 2002 it was very mild. Grapes ripened more slowly and
produced rich ripe flavors ideal for more complex wines. Following the summer
was a heat spike during the Labor Day period, which sped up ripening. Due to
this cool start and spike in temperature, the wines had ripe flavors and good
acidity. Harvest was completed by the last week of October.
Frei Brothers craft their wines in a gentle, traditional style
enhanced through modern technology that makes fruit the focus and showcases the
best that each varietal and appellation have to offer.
The grapes for their Pinot
Noir were destemmed, but not crushed to retain a significant portion of whole
berries for fermentation. They used 80% temperature-controlled horizontal
rotary fermenters to gently mix the juice and skins and prevent tannic
bitterness. By mimicking the traditional method of hand mixing the grapes, they
achieve complete extraction of color, aroma and flavor resulting in rich,
smooth, full-bodied wines. Fermentation proceeded with SYR, Assmanshausen and
BRG yeast strains to give a wide array of flavors and aromas. After two days of
cold soak, fermentation temperatures were monitored closely and not allowed to
exceed 90°F.
After fermentation, the wine
was barrel aged for an average of nine months in 40% new and 60% prior use
French oak barrels for an average of 7 months. The wine completed malolactic
fermentation and the barrels were racked once then topped afterwards to clarify
the wine naturally and to assist in the aging process. The wine was minimally
filtered.
Frei Brothers Reserve wines possess a fruit-forward character
with intense aromas and flavors that reflect the land and the climate that
created the grapes. Their 2002 Pinot Noir is medium to full-bodied and bursts
with pure varietal flavors and aromas of rose petal, black cherry, and
raspberry delicately balanced with sweet vanilla notes and soft tannins. It
pairs perfectly with lamb, duck, seafood in red wine sauce, medium body and strength
cheeses and game.
Side Dish
MARCH GETS BACK
In
its first significant change since going to a full tasting menu format in 1996,
March Restaurant's owner's Wayne Nish and Joseph Scalice are responding to a
changing marketplace in the post 9/11 world, by returning to the simplicity of
its roots.
Gone
are the "formalities" that have characterized March up until
now. Upscale casual are the
operative words. A strict dress code is
no longer in effect. Pricing has been reduced, although the food is still
crafted to the highest standard by Executive Chef and owner Wayne Nish, and
Chef de Cuisine Harold Moore, late of Montrachet and Daniel. Desserts are
now created and executed by Pastry Chef Ralph Harris. Dining room and
wine service under the direction of owner Joseph Scalice is still as efficient
as ever. It is markedly less formal, to
reflect the changing tastes of our loyal clientele, making March appropriate
for everyday dining, business and special occasion dinners.
Come
and experience the three star quality of March at
óóó
Three Courses $65
Includes any two
savory courses as appetizer and main course, and choice of dessert or cheese.
Four Courses $75
Includes any three savory
courses and choice of dessert or cheese; all in smaller portions.
Five Courses $85
Includes any four
savory courses and choice of dessert or cheese; all in smaller portions.
Six Courses $95
Includes any five
savory courses and choice of dessert or cheese; all in smaller portions.
óóó
Expertly paired
with wines, sakes or sherries are available at $9 per glass.
March Restaurant 405 East 58th Street,
These reviews are available and have been seen on the Internet. Click here to see an index of other reviews on the worldwide web <http://www.punchin.com>. <http://www.wineonline.net>. They have been heard on WNCN, WEVD and WQXR radio, seen in Fodor's and Mobil Guide Books, and printed in Chocolatier, Troika, Trump and Metropolitan Millionaire magazines and newspapers and throughout the world, including the NY Post, Women's Wear Daily and the NY Times, via the Punch In International Network. This review may be reprinted free of charge, so long as source and byline credit are included: "The Walman Report," "Punch In International®," Wine On Line International®.
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