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Wine On Line®s
Holiday Wine Recommendations
Three Sweet Dessert Wine
Finishes From Wildman
Pellegrino
Cantine Pellegrino was
established in 1880 by Paolo Pellegrino in Marsala on the island of Sicily. The
company, still family-owned, is the largest in the region today, with nearly
1,000 acres of vineyard and a full range of DOC Marsala. Wine has been made in
this corner of Italy for thousands of years, but it was the British who assured
the success of Marsala as a wine capital. Instrumental in developing the
fortified wines from Oporto and Jerez, they sought similar products elsewhere.
Thus began, in 1773, the production of what is known today as Marsala. The
grapes used for all the Pellegrino wines are indigenous (or brought by the
earliest settlers) and are rarely seen in other regions. The low rainfall, hot
temperatures, and dry winds mean that few chemical treatments are needed.
The sweet and dry
Pellegrino Marsala Superiore are produced from Grillo and Cataratto grapes and
fortified to 18% alcohol. They develop their unique nutty-fruity flavors after
aging for at least two years in a solera of French oak barrels (this wood is
rare for Marsala). This strictly controlled system resembles the one employed
for Sherry. Wine passes through a series of barrels organized in multiple tiers
and is finally withdrawn for bottling when the desired maturity is attained. The
ruby red dry Marsala can be served chilled as an aperitif while the
amber-colored sweet version is a perfect match for creamy desserts, or simply
by itself. Pellegrino also makes a fresh, charming white wine, Cent’are
Chardonnay-Inzoglia, and a delicate red, Cent’are Rosso, under the Duca del
Castelmonte label. Not to be missed are the handsomely packaged dessert wines
from the island of Pantelleria, 80 miles south of Sicily. The Moscato is light
gold and perfumed while the Passito, from dried grapes, is rich and intense.
Lemoncello, a new after-dinner addition to Wildman, is a particularly elegant
product, which captures the intense and delicate flavors of Sicilian lemons.
The Pellegrino range is impressive for its quality and diversity
Pellegrino
Moscato di Pantelleria 2001 ($19)
Producer Background: Cantine Pellegrino was established
in 1880 by Paolo Pellegrino in Marsala on the island of Sicily. The company,
still family-owned, is the largest in the region today, with nearly 1,000 acres
of vineyards. The grapes used for all the Pellegrino wines are indigenous (or
brought by the earliest settlers) and are rarely seen in other regions. The low
rainfall, hot temperatures, and dry winds mean that few chemical treatments are
needed.
Wine Type: Dessert White
Grape Type: 100% Moscato.
Country: Italy
Region: Sicily
Vinification: The Mediterranean island of
Pantelleria, about 80 miles south of Sicily’s Marsala region, is the origin of
this wine. Covered in volcanic black lava rocks with a thin layer of
unirrigated topsoil, the vineyards were separated hundreds of years ago by
stone walls that protect the vines from fierce winds that commonly blow off the
Mediterranean Sea. Vines average 20-30 years old.
This is a naturally sweet
wine from very ripe grapes that have been softly pressed and placed in
stainless steel tanks. The wine is then fortified with pure alcohol after the
fermentation has started.
Tasting Notes: Light golden in color. On the nose, typically
intense and fruity aromas of the Moscato grape are immediately apparent with
hints of apples, peaches and apricots in the background. Those same
characteristics are mirrored on the palate, with a good level of acidity to
provide backbone and balance to the natural sweetness. Best served well chilled
as an aperitif or an accompaniment to desserts, fruitcake, or marzipan.
Food Match: desserts.
Pellegrino
Passito di Pantelleria 2002 ($13 375 ml.)
Producer Background: Cantine Pellegrino was established
in 1880 by Paolo Pellegrino in Marsala on the island of Sicily. The company,
still family-owned, is the largest in the region today, with nearly 1,000 acres
of vineyards. The grapes used for all the Pellegrino wines are indigenous (or
brought by the earliest settlers) and are rarely seen in other regions. The low
rainfall, hot temperatures, and dry winds mean that few chemical treatments are
needed.
Wine Type: Dessert Tawny
Grape Type: 100% Moscato.
Country: Italy
Region: Sicily
Vinification: The Mediterranean island of
Pantelleria, about 80 miles south of Sicily’s Marsala region, is the origin of
this wine. Covered in volcanic black lava rocks with a thin layer of
unirrigated topsoil, the vineyards were separated hundreds of years ago by
stone walls that protect the vines from fierce winds that commonly blow off the
Mediterranean Sea. Vines average 20-30 years old.
The wine is made from the
must of very ripe Moscato grapes whose fermentation has been stopped by adding
pure alcohol. At least 20% of the naturally dried grapes are added to the must.
Tasting Notes: Golden yellow-orange in color.
Bouquet is complex and elegant, reminiscent of dried fruit and apricots.
Beautifully balanced on the palate, the flavor bursts with rich, intense fruit
that lingers on the finish. Best served at room temperature or slightly chilled
with desserts, dried fruit and mature cheeses.
Food Match: foie gras, desserts, Soft cheeses.
Churchill's
Port Late Bottled Vintage 1997 ($24)
Producer Background: Founded in 1981 by John Graham and
his wife Caroline Churchill, Churchill’s port is an independent, family-owned
Port Wine House -- the first independent port wine house established in more
than fifty years.
Churchill’s is the only
port wine producer who begins with wines produced only from grapes grown in
Grade A vineyards. And according to Robert Parker, Jr., writing in The Wine
Advocate, “Churchill has established an impeccable reputation for superb
quality.”
Churchill's Port was named Best of Nation at the 2002 San Francisco
Wine Competition.
Wine Type: Dessert Red
Grape Type: Made from the traditional Port
grapes: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, and
Tinta Cao
Country: Portugal
Region: Oporto
Vinification: Produced from wine of one year,
aged from between 4-6 years before being bottled. Unlike most LBV’s,
Churchill’s will continue to age after being bottled and will throw sediment
and should be decanted.
Tasting Notes: Rich and concentrated, with
overtones of plums and berries with a firm structure. According to the Wine
Enthusiast, “ Classy and rich, with youthful character prevalent.”
Food Match: desserts, chocolate.
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Women's Wear Daily and the NY Times, via the Punch In International Network.
This review may be reprinted free of charge, so long as source and byline
credit are included: "The Walman Report," "Punch In
International®," Wine On Line International®.
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