The Walman Report®
Featuring Travel Restaurants
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By Nancy Walman
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De Loach Family Wine Renaissance
Continues
The renaissance of the Russian River Valley’s pioneering De Loach family
continues with Michael De Loach rejoining his family at their new winery, where
he will direct sales and marketing.
Spotlight on Hook
& Ladder Winery
RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY ESTATE-GROWN WINES
This Winery offers a broad
range of fine products at affordable prices.
2003 Estate Grown
Chardonnay
Russian River Valley
Cecil De Loach has been farming Russian River Valley
Chardonnay for 30 years and was among a small group of vintners that helped
define this region as premier Chardonnay country. This 2003 Chardonnay
was made from grapes grown in two
vineyards. The first sits in the Piner-Olivet area,
a region located in the southern part of the appellation. The other vineyard is
located in a more northerly section of the appellation on benchland overlooking
the river.
The bright straw to light gold color of the wine announces
a beautiful chardonnay nose combining aromas of ripe melon and yellow apple,
hints of hay and notes of butterscotch. At first sip a creamy quality
emerges followed by a crispness that serves as the platter for the long
flavors of melon, banana, citrus and pure Chardonnay fruit. Lovely with chicken
and grilled seafood.
SUGGESTED RETAIL PRICE: $16
2003 Estate Grown
“The
Tillerman”
Russian River Valley
THE VINEYARDS
The Russian River Valley is a vast
appellation with varying climates and soils. Its renown is due to the number of
varietals that can prosper within its boarders. Hook & Ladder’s Los Amigos
Vineyard sits in the warmer northeastern section of the appellation just south
of the town of Healdsburg.
The Tillerman is bold and robust with a
structure that gives the wine elegance and a long future. The deep red color
gives way to red currant, black pepper and cedar aromas with a touch of geranium.
On the palate The Tillerman offers elegance
and depth. Cassis and plum fruit combine with notes of fresh herbs, anise and
mocha. Grilled meats and assertive cheeses are perfect companions.
BLEND
57% CABERNET SAUVIGNON
27% CABERNET FRANC
16% SANGIOVESE
SUGGESTED RETAIL PRICE: $16
2003 Estate Grown
Zinfandel
Russian River Valley
The Zinfandel grapes used to make this
elegant and rich wine were grown in Cecil De Loach’s estate vineyards located
in the southeastern reaches
of the Russian River Valley known as
the Piner-Olivet area. Lingering morning fog and it’s return at night help keep
temperatures cool at night, which is critical to the slow ripening necessary to
fully develop the grape’s flavors and structure.
Fermented on the skins to extract a
deep ruby color and bring out the grapes’ richest qualities.
After pressing off the solids, the wine
is aged for 10 months in mainly older American oak barrels. The wine is then
bottled and given seven months to rest in bottle before release. Here is Zinfandel produced in a rich
claret style. The dark ruby hues announce aromas of black currant, and black
tea. On the palate this
Zinfandel’s structure comes through as
a velvety crispness. Flavors of blackberry,
Earl Grey and violet liquor produce a memorable wine that would compliment
marinara sauce, smoked pork ribs, roasted portabello mushrooms.or marinated
lamb.
SUGGESTED RETAIL PRICE: $20
2003 Estate Grown
Gewürztraminer
Russian River Valley
THE VINEYARDS
Gewürztraminer demands a cooler climate
that will allow the distinctive flavors and aromas of this grape to mature and
develop. Hook & Ladder’s estate vineyard in the southern reaches of the
Russian River Valley produce just such conditions. Cooling ocean breezes,
summer fog that gives way to warm days and somewhat deprived soils create
optimum growing conditions for this
grape.
The brilliant straw color invites
comparison to other white wines, but the aroma and flavor dispel that notion. This
Gewürztraminer delivers a delicate set of spice aromas
suggesting cloves and cinnamon set that reminds us of honeysuckle.
On the palate an elegant mix of lychee
and peach flavors pair up with a crisp structure that is the perfect foil to
the slightest note of sweetness. This is a wine to pair with spicy Asian cuisine,
grilled sausages, or just a warm summer
afternoon.
SUGGESTED RETAIL PRICE: $12
Hook & Ladder Winery • 2027 Olivet
Road • Santa Rosa • California • 95401
T/707-546-5712 • F/707-546-5706 • mailto:info@hookandladderwinery.com•
http://www.hookandladderwinery.com/
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